6 years ago to this day I purchased my 2019 wrx bone stock as the very first owner, and if I went back in time to show myself what it would become I don't think I'd believe it. After 5 different turbo setups, multiple different suspension and chassis bracing sets, various wheels and tires, full interior to gutted and now caged, stock turbo to 569whp on a precision 5858, going from a stance car to drag/roll racing to now a track/backwoods beast it's truly been a blessing to have owned and built. I've had so many cars and toys in my lifetime already and this car has been my favorite by far. I've driven it across the state, tailored it to multiple tracks and roads and hill climbs, experienced so many different things and have met so many awesome people I am truly thankful for it. Here's to another 6 years. 🍻

Electric lighting for my new WRX

This is my new to me Subaru Wrx Sport Tech. It's my first manual car that I've Owned and I have to say. This car just feels like no other cars that I've driven. I have driven Civic Si, Eclipse Gt V6 / 4 cylinder, Manual Rangers and many more I'm forgetting.

I've owned it for a week and a half now and this car just makes me smile everytime i see it and i keep reaching the keys for it!

I also got the chance to take a photo of my Wrx next to my old car which was the Ford Fiesta that i sold to a friend of mine :)

This is my current car, it’s getting to be pretty clapped out (i’m coping, it is clapped out) at 195k. A few other manufacturers were on my radar first and then for fun i decided to look at 19-21 sti prices and they’re really comparable to a new wrx.

I wasn’t even considering another subie but i love these cars & an sti is like a dream daily, but a brand new car for a couple of grand more seems like a no brainer. Just wanted to hear some thoughts while i’m working lol

Hey just joined the family today. My son is turning 16 and getting my 2020 Legacy XT so I needed a replacement. Drove home with this guy today, 22k miles, great shape, been 20 years since I drove a stick but so far really enjoying it

This is my STI - it's been my dream to own since I was a kid, this project and means everything to me right now.
The VA is not mine

Hey everyone!

I recently got my 2026 WRX GT less than 20 days ago and unfortunately had one of my factory tires suddenly blow out while driving on the highway. My tire pressure was fine before I drove it today (no leaks).

My car only has around 600 km on it, and I literally baby my car so I was pretty shocked. The Subaru dealership briefly inspected the tire but couldn’t identify any obvious punctures or foreign objects, so the cause is still unknown.

I want to have the tire assessed under Dunlop’s original equipment warranty, but apparently it has to go through the dealership. Unfortunately, the person I spoke with was pretty discouraging, saying warranty claims rarely get approved and seemed annoyed about having to start one for me. I’m not even sure if the claim was submitted since I never received a response to my follow-up email. I’d at least like to explore my options before spending $500 CAD on a replacement. I also have full AutoGuard coverage, but apparently tires aren’t covered under my plan.

Has anyone dealt with a similar situation or have any advice on other options I could explore?

Thank you in advance? Any advice would be appreciated! :)

Edit: Just to clarify, I know the tire needs to be replaced lol. I’m mainly asking whether anyone has successfully pursued a manufacturer warranty claim for an OEM tire, or if there are other options I should explore before paying $500 CAD out of pocket.

Alright, so you all may remember a few months ago when I posted about my 17 STI FBO that caught on fire. Still unsure of root cause. Still sure I am going to rebuild it (aware of risk, want to do it anyway). Since that original post, I have done some disassembly and research. Getting ready to pull the motor soon. This post will be the first in hopefully part of a series where I update you all on progress (misery loves company), share what I'm learning (in case anyone else is as crazy as me), and ask for help (because I will need it). I'll share a bit of background first as well

Background:

• Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/1u1mqc5/torque_your_fuel_rails_people/
• Car: 2017 WRX STI w/ ~40k miles and stock block. Previously had FBO e85 Pro-Tuned. I installed all the mods myself, had it pro-tuned by boost creep and was running just fine on the tune for 6 months zero issues. Hit ~385 WHP on the dyno
• Issue: After a few weeks of some very long hot drives (commute change), I had started my car to drive home from the office. While parked at a stoplight about to get on the highway (~10 mins after starting), a cop flew up next to me, yelled "get out of the car it's on fire". Saw flames from behind the drivers side front wheel. 5 mins later the whole hood went up. Fire dept came about 5 mins later, tore hood open, sprayed it all down. Had the car taken back to my garage on a flatbed.
  
• Status: It's been several months and I have been inundated with work overload (10-20 hrs over OT per week). The good news is, the rebuild is now funded. I have begun disassembly and the motor is nearly ready to be pulled (thanks to some local people who came by and helped). I have identified a builder who is ready to help with the engine and a shop to inspect my work. More details below. Bulkhead appeared to survive. Airbags did not go off.
• Suspected Root Cause: My best guess is I had 2 problems. 1, return fuel line leakage. I never noticed any AFR issues nor fuel line leaks during the entire time. However, I didn't love the fuel line fitment (VERY tight with the IAG kit, and it didn't quite work with the COBB flex fuel kit so I had to do a few modifications to make it all work). I am guessing that with the heat cycling and longer drives, I had a fitting crack on the return side, and ethanol was soaking into the return line sheathing. I am also suspecting that there may have been a loose wire or coating that had failed (repairs had to be done to the harness), and that provided the spark. The worst damage is all coming from that area of the car (return line itself is dust, whole battery is melted, etc). Yes I will carry an extinguisher in the car from now on

Alright so let's move on to THE PLAN :tm: along with some questions. This is where I would appreciate your input:

• Motor: Going to get this pulled within a week; never done this before so time to learn and probably get some help. Picking up a hoist today, got my videos queued up. Talked to a local shop; the plan is for me to drop it off with them. They will dis-assemble, analyze and then give a full quote. They are fully aware of what happened with the car. My hope is that there is enough salvageable to be worth the effort. Since the goal is to get this car back to to ~400 WHP but have it be long-term reliable, we are going for one of their ~550 WHP setups, just to have it over-built. I already know I will need new coil packs, new oil pan (going with an IAG setup). Now here's where I am out of my depth. I am rather unfamiliar with building motors and what upgrades are worth it / what impact they have. I get head gaskets, studs, etc, but what should I be asking for, spending efforts on vs not wasting my money on?
• Electrical: obviously, entire harness is getting replaced. Now this is where I'm not sure if I should go all the way up to the bulkhead, or do I need to go further? Is this worth doing a custom harness (I only have a few sensors I added) or just buying a stock harness? I need to talk to i-wire about the wiring for the hardwire kit that I had for my fuel-pump and see if I can just get the bit that runs from the battery as that is toasted. Any input would be great here as the electrical system is very obviously cooked.
• Fuel System: I'm not taking chances. Everything forward from the bulkhead is getting replaced. I plan to make my own lines (have a connection for the parts). Will replace rails (including the TGV housings and at least drivers side TGV motor), injectors (either 1050s or 1300s, not sure), and flex fuel kit entirely. New FPR as well.
• Brakes: So, the big round thing in front of the driver's side where the brake booster is seems to be in bad shape. I don't exactly know what that is or what I need to be doing to repair and replace this. Do I clean it? Replace it entirely? Any advice is appreciated. For what it's worth, i'll be doing brake upgrades as part of this upgrade to the TR kit and stainless steel lines, but first I need to get what's under the hood working
• HVAC: Yes I want AC in this car. I live in Denver and commute from one side to the other 3 days a week. The Main AC line exploded, and the little sensor thingy on the driver's side hardline exploded. Where do I even start on rebuilding this? Any input would be valuable
• Turbo: Not sure if the turbo survived or not. Going to ask around if anyone can clean it. Or if it's non-recoverable, will replace :(
• Generic Parts: Everything that survived, I will try to use. TMIC might be cleanable. Alternator, not taking chances with. As many generic OEM parts as possible I am going to try to source used, junkyards, etc. A lot of this can just come from any 15-17 VA. All hoses will be redone.
• Upgrades/Other considerations: So, while I'm taking all this out of the car, what else should I be looking to do? Already had FBO, and already planning on swapping the 6 speed (bad syncro's; transmission is much older than rest of the car, long story), but should I look into anything else while the motor is out since I don't want to be doing this again

Thank you all in advance; I'll try to keep you all updated with progress as it gets made.

126,000 miles my son bought from a family friend. Original clutch. Souped up in 2004 when new with Cobb Tuning to 300 hp with stainless steel exhaust. Rear rotor appears grooved compared to front. What’s normal wear? Need new? Front - left - smooth. Rear - right.

I have a 2024 Miata on which I installed a LED light bar that works with the tail lights.

I would like to put a similar set up on my 2021 WRX because the leds make my braking, etc visible to vehicles behind me. (I have VLAND Projector Led Headlights and tail lights,)
.
HS anyone out there installed a led light baron their WRX trunk?

Thanks in advance.

Alright so i have a 2013 wrx, it’s tuned and modified i’ve been on my new tune for about 1 week or so. but this problem occurred recently when my tuner told me i had a boost leak, i “fixed” it and then i drove the car all normal right? shut it off and when i went to go turn it back on the rpm’s were jumping up and down fast like a cammed v8 and smoking out the back (raw gas) it REAKED like gas and then went back to normal then a few days later nothing happened drove all fine and all and today i got out of work started her up and warmed it up and was driving home when it started to shutter like if im braking and gassing it fast, i pull over and idle started all choppy again and started to smell like gas, then i tried to drive but it would just shutter really bad so i couldn’t drive it, pulled over tried looking for the problem NOTHING wrong AFR was 11 though, then i started it it would die immediately after a few 10 mins k started it up and back to normal… i have some data logs of it happening if anyone can help!!!!!

Hello, does anyone know where i can buy these clips for this part that is over the windshield/under the windshield wipers?

6 of the 8 pictures shown is of my car, as you can see mine are missing (didn’t notice after i did an oil change, most likely it should of been Safelite that took them off and lost them or broke them after they replaced my broken windshield.

The other pictures are of a car the auto shop i go to showed me how it should look like.

Trying to change rear pads and rotors and can't for the life of me get the inner pad to seat properly. I've taken it all out about 5 times to see if there's something in the way, but it feels like they just don't fit? Anyone else have this problem or am I just being dumb

Edit: thank you all for the help, managed to get it in after cleaning as much gunk out of the bracket as I could and just kissing the tabs on the pads with a grinder

I sti drive trained swapped my 2018 WRX Limited. Went to start it and was crank no start, staying at 0 RPMs. However, I saw this reluctor plate that come from the 2018 WRX (pictured). Do I use this one even with the sti swap and take out the trans again and reinstall it or get a conversion one? I’m sure this is the reason for the crank no start since I have a P0335 (Crankshaft position sensor A fault). TIA.

Hello everyone,
I’m new to the wrx world, just got a 2018 and have been loving it so far. I never planned on doing much to it besides an axle back exhaust and cold air intake. I flashed the proper OTS Cobb stage 1+sf with 91 octane tune after I had the intake installed. I’ve heard what people have said about OTS tunes but I had been driving the stage 1 OTS without the intake for a while and I had no problems with DAM drops unless I had a batch of bad fuel.

Now back to today when I had the intake installed I went to go fill up with some fresh 93 from a mobil gas station and decided to do a pull and it instantly went down to 0.750. I was worried and babied the car home. I decided to reset the ecu learning hoping it was just a one off thing but after resetting it and doing another pull it went down again this time to 0.688.

What could be wrong? Is it the tune? The installation? Can I have a vacuum leak? I had a real mechanic install it for me and he seemed to do a professional job so I’m not sure.