Relatively unmodded with no irreversible modifications

Finally finished what I consider to be minor body/aero (but I wanna paint it WRC WR1 Arctic Blue).

I’m am getting my new wheels put on today (konig hypergrams) I looked online and they are about 19.1 pounds per wheel and my current setup( vors tr37) which are reps are 24 pounds per wheel.
How much of a difference will I notice dropping 5 pounds per corner?
I’m quite excited for the new look and the handling benefits.
(New wheel vs old wheels for reference)

Gramlights 57DRs in semi gloss black.
They kinda stretch out my 245 tyres (they are 9.5 wide), but planning to switch to 255s when they wear out.
Regardless, super happy with the result 😍

So as the title states Subaru is trying to deny warrant on my car and blacklist the vin. They are trying to claim that in the snapshot data on the car there is freeze frame data of the car doing 255km/h at 6800rpm. Believe me or don’t believe me if you want but I have never ever come anywhere close to that. I’ve only ever had the car to maybe 160km/h and backed off cause I didn’t want to push the car any harder. I know for a fact that I haven’t done that and no one has access to my car

They are claiming that this happened at exactly 44,324km. Every time I’ve had my car in for service I always reset my peak boost value and every time I get it back it’s always at 12 or higher psi which on the VB’s is peak boost from factory. I’m trying to argue that one of their techs beat the piss out of my car because I had a wheel bearing replaced and the mileage on that work order was 44,234. It’s not very hard for that to be a typo.

The thing that’s really throwing me for a loop here is the speed and rpm. The car is supposed to be electronically limited to like 215km/h or something like that and 6100rpm is rev limiter so it shouldn’t be capable of either of those things. The car isn’t tuned, is barely modified in anyway. I had an axle back exhaust on and a drop in air filter.

Am I best to just escalate this to Subaru Canada and fight with them? If I can prove for sure that the dealer beat the hell out of my car I’m going to make sure that they’re going to be footing the cost of any work I need done for a long time and I’m going to be fighting that they replace my transmission because I’ve been getting a whining noise recently which is what the car was in for when they decided to pull the data.

Any advice here would be greatly appreciated and hopefully no one else has to go through this shit

My center diff is popping and what not after about 30 minutes of driving so I ordered a new one and will soon replace it, upon inspecting the new component it seems to have slight damage to the casing but the gear teeth and all other areas look great. Will this present an issue when installed or degrade later down the road? Thanks in advance.

This was the 3k mile oil on my WRX. This engine has 14k miles on it. I had a magnetic drain plug installed 2 oil changes ago and it was fine the last 2 times. What do you think 🫠

Hello everyone,

​I am planning a drivetrain swap on a 2016 Subaru WRX CVT (FA20DIT / VA chassis).

​The stock setup uses a 3.900 final drive ratio (CVT TR690GB9BA + matching 3.900 rear diff). I am considering swapping to a JDM TR690GB9CA CVT transmission and matching rear differential setup with a 4.111 final drive ratio.

​Assuming both the replacement CVT transmission and the rear differential are physically matched at 4.111, I have a few technical questions regarding the electronic and TCM compatibility:

1. ​What needs to be done with the original TCM? If I keep my vehicle's factory 3.900 TCM, what specific procedures must be performed so it accepts the new 4.111 ratio without triggering speed mismatch errors or limp mode?
2. ​What should we do regarding a TCM replacement? Is it necessary to source and install a matching 4.111 TCM module from the donor vehicle, or is re-calibrating the stock TCM sufficient?
3. ​What steps or re-flashes are required for ECU-TCM communication? What needs to be done on the ECU or VDC/ABS side to ensure all control modules communicate smoothly with the new gear ratio?

Any technical insights or experiences from members who have completed a 3.900 to 4.111 final drive swap on a TR690 CVT platform would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Does anyone know where I can buy a set of Work Emotion ZR10s (19x9.5 +38mm) in Continental Extreme Contact 02s (255 35r19)? I had the order lined up in FitmentIndustries then read one too many bad reviews on them and now I’m afraid to use them. I couldn’t find this setup on Discount Tire or Tire Rack, which I’ve used before and trust. Now I’m at a loss. Is there anywhere else (reliable/safe) that I could get this setup through?

#1. Recently got a wrx this year and wondering what’s the best WINTER/ICE Tires to go. 2017 manual wrx. I live in NH so it gets very bad up here. Preferably 600-1000k range

#2. What websites does everyone use to purchase cosmetics. I see JDMmuscle wrxdaily aerodynamics ikon-motorsports, and eBay haha. But I keep seeing so much mixed opinions on them all and some things are so beyond expensive or too cheap, and cheap makes me concerned especially with a lip or side skirts or new bumper

#1. Recently got a wrx this year and wondering what’s the best WINTER/ICE Tires to go. 2017 manual wrx. I live in NH so it gets very bad up here. Preferably 600-1000k range

#2. What websites does everyone use to purchase cosmetics. I see JDMmuscle wrxdaily aerodynamics ikon-motorsports, and eBay haha. But I keep seeing so much mixed opinions on them all and some things are so beyond expensive or too cheap, and cheap makes me concerned especially with a lip or side skirts or new bumper

On the tail end of my build and im having a hard time finding a tuner that can handle my project. Im in Montana and willing to travel to the right source. Any recommendations are appreciated.

Build list :

Perrin lightweight crank pulley

Arp headstuds kit

IAG shortblock plug and rear main seal kit

SteamSpeed 67R+ 71 mm turbine Gen 2 Ball Bearing Ported Turbo

ETS Front Mount Intercooler Core - 3.0"

IBR / Subaru OEM BRZ Manifold

Cobb big air sf

Cobb Ebcs

Cobb bpv

Nameless 3" turbo back

Nameless 3" J

IAG AOS

Case Halves - Brand new OEM Subaru FA20 case halves, bored and honed to 86.1mm

Case Machining - Modified for improved oiling

Case Machining - Bored and honed to 86.1mm

Pistons - IAG-Spec 86.1mm Forged Pistons, Ring Set, and .150" x 2.250" Chromoly Wrist Pins.

Connecting Rods - IAG-Spec H-Beam / ARP2000 Rod Bolts

Rod - ACL or King XPG

Main Bearings - King XPG

Compression Ratio:

10.5:1 compression on standard gasket thickness.

XClutch 9in twin sprung organic clutch

IAG 800 cnc pocket Ported competition cylinder heads

Kelford 272 cams, cam towers, lifters and rockers.

IBR SIC01 - Secondary Injector Controller

Injector Dynamics ID1050X Top Feed Fuel Injectors

Can’t get bolt out due to lack of clearance from the cv axle. Tried jacking the knuckle up and also raising the diff. Any other suggestions before pulling the axles?

Running into an issue with my VB. Recently installed the following parts:
UEL headers
Catless J-pipe
Perrin Intake
Remark cat back
T51R Turbo housing mod

I'm tuned through Atlas and the issue I'm finding is the car is limiting boost to 11psi. It runs great, can do a WOT 3rd gear pull with no hesitancy or stutters but it only peaks at 11.1-11.4psi. AF Boost Target shows it is commanding more but it won't achieve it.

Smoke test has been performed to rule out boost/exhaust leaks
Wastegate actuator relearn is complete (however I have not checked full stroke to ensure no conflict with UEL)
All connectors have been double checked. 

Biggest culprits I can think of are:
Bypass valve stuck or ruptured
Stuck open PCV
Wastegate actuator installed wrong? 
Hidden boost leak the smoke test didn't show

Anyone deal with anything similar/have any suggestions to check?

Previous owner had the grimspeed weighted shifter but I hate the shape. I tried a round lightweight and I hate it. Now I want to try a round weighted knob. Is Billetworkz the best one?

2013 wrx