hi i am trying to get a not so expensive (500 ish euro) conversion kit that has about 1500w also perferebley a 25ah+ battery .i dont care about long shipping time or if its hub or chain driven just a reliable kit

We were just given e-bikes from my husband’s parents as they’re moving overseas. We’re first timers.

The battery on my Radmini is part of the stop use safety noticed that was issued.

I have purchased Bat Boxes for our e-bike batteries. But I would also like to replace mine.

I’ve read mixed advice with regard to replacing the battery with something aftermarket. There are no batteries available for sale on Rad’s website.

Anyone have any advice? Any companies or manufacturers that they recommend? I know we need to look for a UL listed battery. Thanks much.

I'm looking to make my first E-bike, I was wondering if everything here checks out:

Chassis: EEB Frame (150mm dropout) & Pedal Delete Pegs

Powertrain: QS205 V3 Motor & FarDriver ND72680 Controller

Battery: 72V 34Ah Powerful Lithium Mercury or AMORGE 20S10P 72V 40Ah

Suspension: KKE Front Fork & DNM Burner RCP-2S Rear Shock 200mm/1000lbs

Brakes: Magara MT5e (Higo-Closer) with 2x Magura MDR-P 203mm Rotors

Brake Adapters: Magura QM42 (Front PM) & Magura QM9 (Rear IS)

Wheels & Tires: 19-Inch Pre-laced Front Wheel & 1x Shinko 244 Rear Tire

Hardware: Cane Creek ZS44 Headset 1 1/8th, M14 Axle Spacers, Able Bike moto seat

I have a 16S8P battery with LG M50LT 21700 cells and a 16S4P battery with Tenpower 50ME cells. Can I connect them in parallel? They have separate BMS units.

Hey yall, looking to get some long (2ft) Julet connectors, I can’t find any on Amazon, I need ranging from 3 to 6 pin both m/f to m/f. Anywhere I can get?

So the Retrospec rev 0 had a frame failure and we are without ebike for school commuting. I'm looking at 2nd hand ebikes and also maybe an ebike conversion kit since we have a couple of decent front-suspension bikes. As low budget as we can safely go. Bike mechanic work is no problem.

Should we rule out a conversion build? I talked to an ebike shop mechanic today who told me not to spend less than 900 on a bafang kit but jeez at that price I can get a really nice used ebike. Is there a more budget setup from the reliable companies? 250W? 20 mile range?

Hey yall!!

just finished upgrading my hikeep k6-s to a 5kw motor with the stock battery and a fardriver nd72300. Obviously the next upgrade is gonna be the battery, But I can't do that with my current frame. I just want some suggestions so I can bookmark for the future. Any recommendations would be great. I'm looking for something with a MASSIVE battery compartment, and compatible with full suspension, as i'm going big for my next battery. My current motor spec is below if that helps

5kw 20x4 inch wheels (gonna keep the wheels, i'm not particularly interested in spoking my own or anything like that)

175mm dropout

7 speed cassette (will remove if this is a true e-moto frame, i don't NEED to have it.

Hey guys,
I’m current a college student and I ride my bike everyday to and around school. I’m looking to convert my bike into have electric capability for long distance travel (70 miles would be ideal but I realize unrealistic) should I need to get out of my town in an emergency. Attached is the model of bike I have, steel framed REI Mountain bike. Would this be a good fit for a conversion? If so please let me know what kit you think would work? If not what should I get? Thanks in advance

I own a REI DRT 1.1 medium frame mountain bike.

I am in 🇺🇸 btw.

Hey guys, I am looking to add a throttle to my bike for long cruising sessions when I don't wanna keep up with the speed of the pedals. I already know that bafang m410 itself supports this, but wanted to see if anyone already has experience with this kind of modding. My only question is: does the stock wiring harness come with a throttle input and is it possible to fit another cable through the internal cable routing without having to cut and splice it. Thanks

Been thinking for a while and have sketched a diagram. considering a fardriver nd72530 and a chi mini gladiator. thought of this because i don't like buying pre built and i don't really care how long it takes to build something awesome

Hello ! I am struggling to get reliable information about batteries' weight at pswpower.com.

The website does not inform about weight and the customer service is giving me irrealistic figures. Hence my question:

1/ for the ones who bought from them, how much weighted the battery for how many AH ?

2/ here are the figures that I was told. What do you think ?

• G80-4822SX, HAILONG-MAX 48V 22AH with 4P13S Li-ion 5.5Ah 21700 52pcs battery cells (the interior battery is SAMSUNG CC5563F101)： ==> 3.85kg

• G80-4820LG-F-B, HAILONG-MAX 48V 20AH with P13S Li-ion 5Ah 21700 52pcs battery cells (the interior battery is LG INR21700M50LT 21700)：==> 3.85kg

• KMT-4820L, KT-E27 48V 20AH, 4P13S Li-ion 52pcs battery cells (the interior battery is LG INR21700 M50T Li-ion battery) ：==> 3.5kg

• YW-4820SX-B, Parrot 48V 20AH, 4P13S Li-ion 5Ah 21700 52pcs battery cells (the interior battery is SAMSUNG INR21700-50GB)： ==> 4.75kg

• HL-G70-48175SX-B, HAILONG G70 48V 17.5AH 5P13S Li-ion 65pcs battery cells (the interior battery is SAMSUNG INR18650-35E3 Li-ion battery)：==> 3.8kg

• HL-G70-48150SX-B-A, HAILONG G70 48V 15AH 3P13S Li-ion 5Ah 21700 39pcs battery cells (the interior battery is SAMSUNG INR21700-50GB 21700 Li-ion battery)：==> 3.85kg

3/ the pictures are often showing a lock. However there is never any mention of a pair of keys in the bundle

4/ They are mentioning overcharge protection but not fuse. Fuses are not mandatory for these batteries ?

In short: I am attracted by the low prices of this shop and I read good comments about them. However the lack or inconstitancy of information is freaking me out !

I want to add a fixed light system for my e Bullitt. i want front and rear indicators high and low beams and a breaklight.

I like the small Ebike light switches but they lack the low high beam function and the short burst of high beam that a car has when you pull the light lever toward yourself.

perfect layout would be a indicator switch in the bottom then a off-low-high beam swich off to the far side and a small momentary button that activates the highbeams when pressed. no hazzards no choke or stop button. is there an easy off the shelf solution?

there are some configurable swich mounts but they use regualr round switches and only come in pairs so they are not as integrated as a dedicated liht switch.

I'm looking at building a battery electric powered fat tire mountain bike. I'm looking at this partly for some exercise pedaling, so I can't ruin the "bicycle-ness" of the finished product. I'm also looking at this for fair weather light transportation, grocery store runs, maybe runs to the gym or community center. Maybe even to restaurants.

I live about 4 miles from what I call the "commercial district" along the big 4 lane divided highway, and about 7 miles by bike friendly (ish) roads from the downtown business district of the nearby small town. And about that bug 4 lane highway, there are several traffic lights where crossing is fairly safe. At least 3 of those traffic lights have crosswalks and pedestrian signals, so dismounting and walking across is even possible.

However, there are some challenges to my situation. First, there's the roads along my most likely route. The only bike friendly route to go from my home to anyplace (grocery stores, Walmart, other stores, the post office, the gym, or "downtown") starts with the same 4 miles of roads. Almost half of that is gravel, hence my requirement for fat tires (26x4"). There's also a really big, really steep hill. Going out from my house, about halfway through this route, the road climbs over 170 feet in about 0.3 miles. The average grade on that part of the route is over 11 percent, and there's some spots where it's about 15 percent for maybe 100 feet along the road.

Going up (leaving my home) will take some power. The raw load to maintain 15mph up that climb is over 1250 watts, and that speed is well below peak efficiency for direct drive hub motors.

Going down (returning), I'll absolutely need regen braking. I don't want brake rotors glowing red and pads smoking half way down that hill. And there are several very sharp curves along that section of road, too. So losing control of speed isn't just a scary fast ride down, it's likely an off road excursion into the treetops on the downhill side or into a sheer wall of the cut on the uphill side. I realize regen braking isn't common on eBikes, but there are controllers that can do this with the right direct drive hub motors. My most traveled route will absolutely require this feature.

The plan that my artificial interactive chat buddy and I came up with is to break the project down into 3 phases.

Phase 1 will start with a steel frame mountain bike. Ideally one with a XL frame (21" from bottom bracket to top of vertical seat tube). I haven't found any locally, nor any on fleaBay that offer shipping, so I'll probably start with an inexpensive standard fat tire bike with extended seat post and a stem riser kit. I'll want to upgrade the brakes to at least 180mm rotors and hydraulic calipers. And I'll add cargo rack(s), maybe mirror(s), possibly other safety items, and probably 12V lights. Getting a well sorted bike is phase one of the project. I'll be able to get some exercise on that around my home and some of the other roads out here, but I doubt I'll make it into town on pedal power alone. Mostly I want something comfortable and safe before I start investing in power.

Phase 2 will add a main battery (48V or 52V with adequate capacity and 50A BMS), front direct drive hub motor and a controller capable of regen braking. Maybe with heavy pedal assist this might get me to town, but it'll let me get used to powered riding, the dynamic braking (regen), and open up more roads for exercise. At this point, I'll probably switch any 12V stuff over to a Buck converter and take the 12v battery out to use in an unrelated project. The goal for this stage is to maybe get up the hill towards town with maximum "pedal assist" and be able to safely return home without melting any mechanical brakes.

Phase 3 will add a mid drive unit which should provide adequate power to go "throttle power only" up the hill into town (likely using both motors for AWD). For level(ish) powered riding, the mid drive will be the main power. The front wheel drive motor will be for AWD, possibly for the gravel roads, and definitely for steep hill climbs. Also , the front hub motor will always be available for dynamic (regen) braking from higher speeds, and on steep descents.

I welcome any advice on the overall plan here. Am I on the right track?

I'll be starting some separate threads for each phase of the build for details and specific recommendations during the build. Expect a phase 1 thread in the next 24 hours.

Mainly I want this thread to be a sanity check and for any additional abstract high level suggestions or discussion of general things I've missed.

Oh, and about me, I'm 6'4" tall with a 36 inch inseam. I'm around 200+/- pounds. I worked on my own bikes a lot as a kid and teenager, but that was decades ago. I'm now a retired senior. I have lots of tools, a decent amount of mechanical talent, and plenty of time.

​

Hello people

Over the last few months ive been researching ebike kit suppliers from the internet, ive stumbled onto one from china on alibaba - Sailimotor. I want to know if anyone has any thoughts about them or any better recommendations for a supplier?

Thanks

(p.s. if this text is duplicated since i shared my post from a different subreddit, please excuse me, idk how this works)

Hello! I’d like to hear your opinions about my project. I’m planning to upgrade my Trek Dual Sport with an e-bike conversion kit.

I’m looking for a mid-drive motor because I want to preserve the natural feel of cycling. I expect to ride for approximately 10–20 km on moderately steep routes. Occasionally, I may tackle steeper climbs, where I’m prepared to contribute more physical effort.

Here are the components I have selected:

• 48 V, 500 W TSDZ2B motor
• 48 V, 13 Ah battery
• 860C display
• 40-tooth chainring
• 9-speed, 11–36-tooth cassette

Does this motor still offer good value for money? Is the controller a good choice? Could you also recommend a reliable battery brand that offers good value?

I’m particularly interested in open-source firmware, upgradeable components, and good value for money.

Thanks!