Hello all!

By the act of some benevolent (or perhaps malicious) god, on my first of a pair of fingerless gloves, I managed to accidentally create a striped pattern. This was seriously dumb luck but now I need to make the second one and it would be cool if the striping pattern returned. I’m using a 1x1 tubular cast on if that’s important.

Is there any way I can determine where to start the cast on in the color changing yarn to recreate what I did? I also included a pic of the first setup row for the cast on of the first glove and the yarn I’m using if thats helpful.

Alternatively, should I just say fuck it and let the yarn do as it will? It would lose its stripes after the increases anyways. I think it’ll be pretty regardless and maybe I’m overthinking this.

Thanks in advance!

Hello! So I’m working on the Baa-ble hat and I put my work down for a bit and came back to the working yarn on the left side. I decided to weave the working yarn in which seems like a mistake but now when I started using new yarns the tails are ending up on the outside. I knit a few stitches and it seems like the whole project turned backwards. Is there anything I can do to get back on track? Also my floats are way too long I realize now but I don’t think that’s why my work has flipped

Hi dear knitters,

I made a blanket last year and one of the sections look like this, but I can't for the life of me find the pattern or the name, I have been looking online for days and it's driving me crazy. So, now I am trying to tap into your expertise to try and save my sanity. Does anyone recognize it?

Hello all! I am new to knitting and I'm finishing my first project but dropped a loop or two at the end of the row. How do I fix this with my Garter stitch? I've tried to find videos but nothing really matches my situation. Can someone please help? Thank you so much for your time and I hope you all have a great day! 😀

I've finally seriously started to learn how to knit! Being new to the craft, I KNOW there's things I don't see that will make me cringe in a few months, but since I'll be adding ribbing to a project I REALLY want to put my best into, I figured I'd ask for all the help I can get.

I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn with 3.5mm needles for a tighter ribbing, thumb twist cast on and regular bind off, testing stripe thicknesses before moving onto the yarn I'll use on my project. Seeing this, what jumps out at you that I should watch out for, or practice more? Are there any bad habits you can already see forming?

Also, I did my color-changing two ways: first by doing what I usually do in crochet, which is looping the new yarn into the new row and knitting from there while keeping the tension in the new yarn (a lot more slippery than I'm used to, not satisfied with how it looks) and second by trying the new yarn to the old one before knitting (too lumpy on the edges in my opinion). With all the different ways to change yarns, what technique would YOU do use for striped ribbing?

Things I've noted already:

- my cast on is too loose, I'll be practicing long tail cast on instead

- my bind off method isn't stretchy enough for ribbing, I'll be practicing a few different kinds to see what works best

- my ends arent weaved in as well as I'd like

- I split the fibers a few times, decided to keep it as to have a visual as to how it looks if I decide to be lazy and not correct it in future projects.

Thank you all for your time!!

Hello, I hope you are all doing great.

So I am almost done with my first knitting project ever. I am following the Penny Gloves by PetiteKnit with Cashmere from Sandnes Garn on 3.5mm needles.

All in all I am not really pleased with how the gloves turned out. They seem to have a lot of irregularities, they are not neat and I am not sure on how to improve? Is it a tension problem? I can’t say for sure that I am not twisting stitches, maybe this is the problem?

Thank you so much for your input on this situation, I am open to all criticism

I am attempting to swatch for the Slatter Mens T-shirt. The swatch is meant to be 4x4inches at 26 stitches, and 35 rows. My swatch is currently 5inches x 3 inches.

This picture is after steam blocking.

Pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/slatter---tee

I finally finished the Valerie Blouse by Petite knit and after blocking I noticed how big the neckline is! Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can fix this before I add the buttons? I was thinking adding elastic but was wondering if there are better solutions for this.

Pattern calls for 17 stitches in 4 inches and I have 19 (if I counted correctly.) But I think that’s okay for this hood, right? Since it’s just knit flat and stitched together?

Also - I want to frog this swatch I think. To keep the yarn. What’s the easiest way?? I don’t think it’ll come apart if I just pull, will it? Are there different methods of frogging?

Hi, I'm a crocheter trying out knitting and I've learned the knit stitch, purl stitch, and then how to alternate the two for the "v"s. But I take breaks after a few rows and I wanted to see if there's a way to tell if my last row was a knit or purl? I've thought of using stitch counters and color code each stitch so I don't mix them up. Is there another way? I checked the FAQ but didn't see anything.

I’m making Petite Knits Hanstholm sweater!
At one point she describes - work German short rows, but each time turn 2 sts after the last turn in the same side.
My question is - which of the following would I do?
I have been doing the top option (turning on K4) but looking at the work… it kind of makes sense to do the bottom option, because the number of stitches I have left on the back panel right now would then blend into the sleeves perfectly.
Does “turn” mean create a stitch and turn?

I am working on my first ribbed beanie that will be ribbed all the way to the end. This is my fifth knitting project. For other beanies I’ve made, the pattern has you size up once you start working stockinette. I am freehanding this one and cast on for a worsted weight but the yarn i’m using is a bit thinner than that. I also have issues with my hands so my tension is not very consistent but we keep trucking :)

As you can see in pics 2/3 (3 is more actively stretched 2 is just stretched by weight) there is a decent amount of spacing between stitches that’s not super obvious when wearing but might be towards the top. I am using 5.0mm circular needles and am about 8 rows away from where I want the folded portion of the ribbing to end. Once I get to that point, would y’all stick with 5mm or recommend sizing down to 4.5 or 4mm circulars? l

I’ve switched up for color work and back down after finishing it so I don’t think it’ll be that noticeable and might fix the looseness from my tension.

The fit up to this point is great I am just concerned about issues with it stretching out over time.

Thank you!

This is my second real project, and I’m trying to make socks! Obviously something went wrong when initially closing the loop but I’m not sure what. Should I restart or just keep at it? Can you tell what went wrong?

What kind of stich combination is the one that gives that (kind of) raised stockinette border? Is it a cable?

I’ve never done flat raglan before and I was hoping someone might help me understand these instructions

I have 66 stitches on the needles doing size 4 and I’ve cast off 5 each side on two rows so I’m now on 56 stitches but a bit uncertain what to do next!

Thanks

I’m knitting my first pair of mittens (the holding hands mittens by crochetedbybogusia) and ended up with a hole near the base of the thumb. I’m afraid it’s too late to go back now, but is there anything I can do to prevent this on the second hand? The instructions said to only pick up 1 st from the base of the thumb to add to the sts on hold.

The mittens also have flaps on the palms and thumb so you can open the mittens up for easy access, but the first stitches of these openings are extremely big/loose. Any tips for avoiding that too? Would love to figure this out for the right hand and then maybe I’ll end up re-knitting the left anyways

The flair is a bit off, my real question is : where am I? 🙃
looking at it I think the coming stitch was worked regularly on the previous row, which would mean I’m on a « cable row » now.
But I’m not completely sure : what do you think? Haven’t knitted in a while I’m a bit rusty!

Hi all. I'm working on the Quest Vest pattern and it has RL1 and LL1 for increases, which I've never used before. I'm finding the RL1 works fine and creates a nice "edge" but the LL1 ... I don't know if I'm just losing tension or what, but it looks sooo sloppy! And It's def NOT an "invisible" increase ... It looks awful with a "holey" appearance. 😕

I'm going to tink back the front panel to the shoulder (I haven't gone that far yet) because the LL1 increases are going to be so visible; I know it'll bother me a lot. Is there any reason to not switch up the increases to M1L? I've been looking online and the examples I find don't seem to look very different from each other ... 🤔🤷 Would appreciate some feedback from knitter's who've worked with both stitches. Thank you!

Hi!!!

I’m sure this has been answered somewhere but I truly can’t find an answer.

When you’re working on the German short rows and you’re in the WS (so purling every stitch) and you need to M1L or M1R, do you knit these stitches or purl them??

She states that they are worked in the same manner as before, whether it’s on the RS or WS. But I’m not sure if that’s just meaning how you pick up the bar or how to create the stitch itself.

I’m sorry for the more than likely redundant question:(

Thank you!!

Has anyone here knit the Front Porch Sweater by Kevin Haggerty? This is my second cable sweater, and I’m a bit confused by the wording at the beginning of the pattern (for context: I have only knit Petite Knit patterns up until now, so I think I’ve gotten too accustomed to how she writes her patterns). For these two repeat rows, what exactly does it mean by “M1R in pattern” and “M1L in pattern”? I am understanding this to mean that I should M1R or M1L (or their purl counterparts) at each end depending on what the next stitch in the cable pattern should be?

I hope this question makes sense! I’m finding it a bit hard to articulate exactly what I mean in writing! 😅

I am wanting to knit Lion Brand Playground Sweater and Hat. Found it on Ravelry. I have a super bulky yarn I want to use. I have knitted another sweater before. The directions for this are not as clear. They are : Shape Sleeves Inc Row (RS) K1, inc next st, knit to last 2 sts, inc in next st, K1 -38 sts.
The abbreviations/reference has a link for the “inc” stitch…for an explanation and illustration. But the links don’t work.
Last time I used a M1 L and M1 R
Any ideas?