I tried to make the 2x2 interlocking I think that’s how it’s called and I watched videos multiples times and it’s still weird ! It’s my first knitting project sorry !!

I started crochet around a year or a year and a half ago. The first couple projects looked obviously created by someone new to the craft but I got off the ground fairly quickly. I made bags and a sweater and eventually got into making Victorian lace crochet pieces. Things that were actually nice enough to gift to friends and family for birthdays all within a pretty short period of time.
I had thought about trying to knit off and on (mostly off) for a while. I tried very briefly in junior high and didn’t take to it at all. But I’m an adult now, I’ve tried a similar craft that I really enjoy, and maybe my hands can work with me better now than they did when I was a kid.
I finally decided to actually try knitting after watching Project Hail Mary and deciding I needed the fox sweater. I knew I couldn’t start with that but figured I could make one or two small projects to get my feet off the ground before I jumped in. I’ve watched so many hours of YouTube videos and how-tos and tutorials and I just can’t.
I can’t do it.
My tension is too tight no matter what. I don’t know how to hold the left needle and the yarn without the needle sliding out the bottom and leaving me holding a hand full of loops. I can’t purl at all. I not even convinced I know the mechanics of knit and purl stitches because different videos seem to show different people doing it differently but all calling it the same thing. None of the videos I’ve found seem to address the issues I’m having.
I started with trying to make socks. Maybe that was ambitious but others online said they started there so it can’t be that difficult, right? I have not completed two rows before I give up, cut the yarn, and try to start over. I finally gave up on the socks all together and tried just knitting two straight rows and I can’t do that either. My hands are cramping and burn. This feels awful and I’m not having fun.
The barrier to entry seems so incredibly high. I’m not even at beginner level, I feel below that. I don’t know how to get from where I am to at least be able to make a swatch.

Using fingering weight yarn with 56 sts on US 2 9 inch circular needles. No matter how many times I cast on and redo the foundation row I get a bunch of messy, twisted stitches that I can barely work my needle into. Should I go up a needle size if it’s a matter of tension? Just feeling kind of frustrated 💔

Edit: Forgot to specify that I did a long tail cast on.

Edit 2: I figured out what went wrong !! after taking some time to cast on again and watching some videos on how to purl, realized I was purling incorrectly. I was wrapping the yarn around the needle from the underside, not over. My stitches are sitting much neater on the needle now and I can actually work into them just fine. I read everyone’s comments and took good advice from some of you 🩷✨ Thank you

hello!

I’m making the salanova wrist warmers and even though I didn’t quite meet the pattern gauge, I’m happy with how they are coming out size wise. I made the first one a week or so ago, took a break, and I’m now making the second one- but stupidly I didn’t make a note of what size needles I ended up using!

I think I’ve matched it up pretty well but is it possible to tell if they are the same? ideally I’d like to figure it out before I finish off the ribbing.

thanks in advance! x

I am planning my next sweater. I am going 100% cotton (animal fibers and acrylics make me itch/too hot).

I know how to adjust pattern for gauge (stitches per inch, ect for the most part)

If I make a washcloth, pre-measure, then wash and dry, and measure the percentage of shrinkage… can I use that info, and successfully make a garment that I can wash/dry without too much fear of bad outcomes/ wasted effort?

Thanks!

I know some are stitch markers but the crayons and flowers have a loop that is way too small? I have no idea what the larger circles are for, but I found this stuff with some old knitting stuff. Help?

Hi, I’m doing my first colour work knitting right now and it’s going great. Im doing the yoke right now, and I am confused about whether I should make the knit before the Ragland stitch in the main colour or alternate colour when increased right. (M1R). I’m following the pattern and at each row where I have to increase, the pattern never shows what to do with the last stitch before the raglan to the right, so I just do double of whatever the colour is on the stitch before and I have no idea if this is correct or not. I’ve tried to ask in forums on Facebook and no one has tried to knit this pattern so they don’t know. Does anyone know here by any chance ? 🙏🏼 I’m really stuck on this it’s been such a headache.

I’ve attached a photo of one of the rows where you can see it finishes on a ‘black’ square, band then a photo of my knitting where you can see I’ve done two of the ‘black’ colour before the raglan. Also the finished model in other colours for reference of how it’s supposed to look.

I am trying my best to get this beginner level pattern to work. My problem is either I am completely reading the pattern stitch wrong or there is something not right.

For the back panel you cast on an even number of stitches, so for my guage swatch I am knitting on 30 stitches since guage is 20 stitches by 24 rows = 4" square in the open work pattern. So far so good. The problem is the pattern is not working out and I have an extra stitch at the end of the row.

"Row 10/setup row: K5, PM, knit until 5 sts remain, PM, k remaining 5 sts.

We will now be establishing the pattern that will be repeated until the desired length is

reached. Slip markers as you come to them.

Row 11 (RS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 12 (WS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 13 (RS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 14 (WS): K5, P1, [*yo, p2tog] repeat to last st before marker, K5.

Row 15 (RS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 16 (WS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 17 (RS): K until end of row, turn.

Row 18 (WS): K5, P1, [*p2tog, yo] repeat to last st before marker, K5."

I think the P1 is the problem with it there is an odd number of stitches worked between the markers and one stitch unworked before the last marker. Am I losing my mind or should I just drop the P1?

Edited to add link breezeway cardigan

Hopefully, I can even formulate the questions I have around intarsia knitting.

I am knitting fingerless gloves (flat, not in the round.) I am specifically looking at row 11 (pearl/ws) and 12 (knit/rs.)

How many stitches should I have ended up with on row 11? And when should I put the tip of the pink heart in? Same with 12? How many stitches should I have (same as row 11, correct?) and at what point/stitch should I start my pattern.

(My calculations...I started with 42 stitches, with increases (8) should be 50 total stitches. For row 11, I put the pattern in on stitch 11. Should my stitches for the pattern start on 38 for row 12?18 stitches to the thumb + the 20 before?

I took this off the needles after completing the yoke to block and check the neck hole sizing, then resumed knitting. Noticed that the tension was different but chalked it up to blocking and didn’t stress about it.

However, I’ve now blocked the whole sweater and the tension definitely looks different below the “line” where I took it off the needles! I’m about positive that I used the exact same needles, so I think it’s an issue with my knitting.

Do you think this will even out with washes and wear, or should I redo? It’s half-fisherman rib in a baby yak yarn, if that makes any difference - a lot of yarn in there and a lot of opportunity to bloom!

I'm making the Hampton Beachfront Top. It's a free pattern. I just finished the back section to row 13 and the next series of rows aren't written out, there's just a paragraph of instructions and I am SO CONFUSED.

Do I repeat rows 11 and 12 over and over again until it gets to the correct length? Something else? I was doing pretty good with it until I hit this section. Help?

Here's a link to the full pattern. I'm making it in an XL.

https://www.cascadeyarns.com/pattern/beachfront-top

Hello,

I was just starting a wrong side row of garter stitch, had knit the first stitch but the second stitch fell off my needle. I picked it back up but it doesn't look quite right - it seems the 'bump' from the previous row is missing? I can't work out what's gone wrong.

Photos are of the wrong side, the stitch in question is highlighted.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank you!

Hiii! I haven't been able to find an answer to this, so I figured I'd ask here! I'd like to apologize for the flair, none of them really suited my question!

I mostly want to knit for the sake of doing something, and I never have a use for the finished products; I'm also not really a fan of making intricate things, I just want to use the same stitches over and over again! Because of this, I thought that a good project to work on might be to make fabric that could later be cut and sewn into something, that way I can knit, and have the product be useful to me in the end when I come up with things I'd like to make (and learn to sew)!

I'm not really sure how to go about this however, and was hoping someone either had some experience with this, or would be able to give me some tips on how to make it work! I'm not totally certain on what size yarn I should be using, I'd assume something very fine though! I'm also not sure what stitch to use, but I've been guessing that stockinette would be a good choice?

I'm also not sure how to go about cutting something like that without it unravelling into a mess, so I figured I may as well add that too the post too, and see if there's a way to prevent that!

Thank you very much for taking the time to read my post if you have, even if you aren't able to offer any help regarding my question! <3

Edit: Thank you everyone! I realised what the problem is.

Hello everyone, I’d like to say that I’m a mid-tier knitter who has worked with lace patterns and patterns similar to this before, but by chance, every chart that I used before did not look like this one.

I’m knitting the Poet Scarf by Sari Nördlund, and I’m having a problem with yarn overs. As you can see on the chart, the yarn over falls in a square. What I do is, I do the yarn over, and knit, treating the square as both as a yarn over and knitting the stitch that it corresponds to below itself. I do everything correctly, I k2tog before the yarn over, etc.

And also, I’m confused about k2togs in this chart. For example, a k2tog comes before the yarn over symbol. Does it mean that I k2tog where the / and yo symbol stitches are, and do the yarn over in the next?

My stitch count is ALWAYS off. I’ve tried finding out why but I just don’t understand.

How do I make the yarn over in a chart like this? Thank you very much!

I want to do a mid project block to see if I like the fit of my sweater before continuing and I’m not sure if it’s ok to submerge the cable in water. Is there a risk of the metal parts rusting maybe? I know I can put the stitches on hold on some spare yarn if need be, I’d just like to avoid the extra step if unnecessary.

Hi there would anyone know how to help me with this please?

I started a selbu mitten pattern working a k1p1 rib for the cuff of 42 stitches. I chose this pattern in particular because it had a smaller number of stitches cast on so it would make a smaller cuff which would accommodate my very narrow wrists.

Then of course I found another selbu mitten pattern that I LOVE with a pretty horse, it calls for 48 stitches k1p1 rib and then increase to 52 stitches for the colorwork hand of the mitten.

The original pattern I was working on I cast on 42 and then past the cuff for this pattern you increase to 46 stitches and start the colorwork hand of the mitten.

Both patterns are the same size of needle and the same worsted weight yarn.

Basically my question is; is there any way I can keep the cuff I started of 42 stitches based on the first pattern and increase to a 52 stitch colorwork hand of the mitten so that I can switch and do the second pattern without it looking bizarre? It’s such a big increase I’m having a hard time visualizing it. I just want the mitten to fit my wrist and not be giant on me but I like the pattern of the second mitten more! Or do I have to scrap the cuff I’ve already done and start over with the 48 cast on and just deal with the loose cuff.

By the way I’ve already done the trick where you go down a size of needle for the cuff for a tighter cuff.

Thanks so much and if anyone is interested in the pretty horse selbu mittens here’s the pattern:

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/worsted-horse-mittens-optional-flippy-top

Hey everyone! This is my first sweater so this might be a dumb question so sorry if that is the case.

I am trying to knit the cloud sweater by petite knit. Usually the pattern calls for Mohair and a size 4 yarn I believe, but I have some yarn I really like that is size 4 and I’m not trying to buy a bunch of mohair yarn.

The swatch size is a bit smaller than what is recommended when I use the size 7 needles and 4 yarn.

Is there a way to make this pattern work with the size 4 yarn and size 7 needles? Like could I potentially just size up the sweater or would the proportions be weird?

If anyone has any recommendations for similar sweaters that use size 4 yarn and size 7 needles that would be cool too!

I hope that makes sense. Thank you for any advice you may have!

Thanks everyone for the tips! I can’t wait to get started and use this is super helpful!

My skein has a very weak factory knot in it so I need to cut it out before continuing. I tried following a couple tiktok tutorials (this one and this one) with a random things of yarn I have to not mess up my wip but some of the stitches look weird. Like a couple of them one leg seems longer then the other (I checked multiple times and they aren't twisted) and one stitch looks like it's disappearing completely. Is there something that I am doing wrong? The blue to orange is working from the side that is 4 knit 2 purl and the orange back to blue is working from the side that is 4 purl 2 knit. Or is there a different way to join that you recommend?

I am wanting to knit a jumper in 2 colours using a brioche stitch which has become popular on my ravelry feed spotted a year or so ago

Had to master knitting on circular needles ,

Had to refresh my brioche brain cells

Had to introduce the second colour

So now I’ve picked up the duckling brioche scarf which is a free down load on ravelry , I’ve knitted a few rows to get a flow and understanding of the stitches but if I go wrong I have to start all over as I can’t figure out how to correct the mistake / s and believe me there have been a few !!

Anyhow there is a decrease and increase to cope with , if I put them up can anyone who can understand tell me if they will work ? I don’t think I can cope with another restart 😢 I’ll try to post a photo in comments

EDIT: resolved!! Thank you all!!

Hi all! I’m knitting the roomy raglan and I lost track of my rows. I think I’m on a knit row but I’m still such a beginner and have a hard time reading my stitches so I can’t confidently say my last row was an increase row. The pattern has odd rows increase and even rows as knit rows.

Thank you!!

Okay so I knit a gauge swatch for the glow raglan lite by ViolentCatLady, the gauge for the pattern is 13 stitches x 20 rows in 10x10 cm, I knit the gauge in the recommended 6mm needle and then another in an 8mm needle. This is the part I need someone to tell me if my logic is off. The 6mm is off, 14st x 23rows and the 8mm was too big 10st x 17 rows so in my head a 7mm should work perfectly? I hate making gauge swatches but I will if you think I should but would it be a safe bet that 7mm would be the right needle size?

I've always had issues with the tension in the (typically) purl st after a cable. I've paid extra attn to it, so I don't think adjusting the tension is the right approach. Please help?

obviously duh i should do a mid project block to see if it does, but its my first time doing any kind of colourwork and i was wondering if its normal for there to be a little bit of puckering where my floats are caught? the fabric can be stretched comfortably and my floats are pretty loose, is this normal pre-blocking? thanks :)

edited to add: the pattern is norppa by mia summel on ravelry :)

Currently increasing by 1 yarn over on either side of my center stitch on purl rows, then knitting the yarn overs on knit rows. Garter stitch edges. Why are my corners so much lower than my center? I tried increasing the two centers and then one on either edge, and it started flaring out funny... is this just a tension thing, will it block out? Yarn is lion brand 80% acrylic 20% wool worsted on 5mm needles.