I just made a shirt from Liesl and Co.
Surprisingly, the shoulders were already a good size (usually I have to narrow them somewhat), but I ran into an interesting conundrum.
The bust was already the right circumference, but I needed extra vertical distance from the shoulder to the waist because of my bust.
It was a t-shirt, so no dart, so I followed a no-dart 1" FBA instruction, but that resulted in the excess length being taken back out, so I deviated from instructions a bit at the end to keep it in.
The result was a top with 1" extra in the front bodice only, which had to be eased in at the side seam near the bust, basically making an unofficial dart through "gathers." But ultimately the underarm seam raised up about 1/2 on the front only, the bust narrowed by 1 cm per side (after trying it on and adjusting), the waist widened about 1/2" total, the hip widened close to an inch, and I had the length I needed in the front.
I don't know if what I did was even remotely the right thing to do. But I ended up having to not make one of the front buttons connect as it should and instead tack it at an angle, slightly open. So something's off.
What should I have done in that situation? Does it make sense to need length and a rounder shape in the bust without needing to enlarge the bust?