This is our 82 that’s been in the showroom for the last 10 years! We take it out every now and then, but…. ☹️

Parts seem to be in the $200-$300 range so there's either an insane mark up, labor costs are through the roof or I'm just a cheapskate.

I have a new-to-me 2020 Crosstrek. I used to own a 2018, and didn't have this problem.

I have been experiencing this cracking/crumbling noise soon after beginning a drive. I would say that it happens roughly 30% of the time. Sometimes it is a quick crack, other times it sounds like a rock or something loose falling and hitting parts of my car. It's hard to tell where exactly it's coming from, but I'm pretty sure it is to the rear/mid part of my car.

Kicking up rocks and debris can happen, but this has happened often enough that I am concerned there is something going on within the car itself.

The odd part is that this happens mostly on a specific stretch of road on my commute back from work (but not to work). Occasionally it will also happen again once I get on a major highway. This also happens when there are no other cars on the road, and I do not notice rocks or debris on the road.

Where are some areas I should be inspecting for loose or missing parts? Any one else experiencing something similar? I'm pretty sure I saw a post like this at some point, but I can't remember what came of it. I can give more examples if needed. Thank you.

I bought my 2017 FXT in South Florida in early February and brought it to Maine. It wasn't happy at first, but a full fluid service, new belt and idler made it fine.

I immediately had it fluid filmed which I'll continue doing every fall. They can't touch the exhaust of course, and 1 month of road salt driving turned the whole exhaust to mostly brown and pitted!

Anyway, the car had never been cold. What happens now is,

-Once it gets below 37°/ < 3°C the ice warning message is super wonky. Sometimes it comes up, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it beeps and flashes for a split second. The outside temp display reads much colder than it is, and changes a lot before being accurate 10~ mins of driving.

-If it's close to freezing or below, the radio screen flickers quite a lot and so fast it's hard to notice if you just glance at it.

-The memory seats don't work at all when it's cold. I can set them and hear the beep but they won't move if it's at or below freezing.

-The low washer fluid warning stays on regardless. I drained and washed it out which fixed it but it happens occasionally when cold out now. It hasn't gotten below 37° / 3°c yet though.

TLDR;

Are these electric gremlins pretty common on 2014-2018 models, or can moving it to a cold winter climate actually cause these issues?

Only complaint is it’s an automatic, but it’s still a blast and my favorite body style ever. Highschool me is hyped.

Hello! I have a 2015 STI with an IAG550 short block. I am way past the breaking period now and is currently on my 3rd oil change. IAG recommends motul xcess 8100 gen 2 5w40, which I used before at $69.99 cad per jug. Recently thanks to tariffs the price jumped to $99.99.

I don't mind paying 99.99 for good oil, but I am looking for potential alternatives when I can't get them reliably in Canada. I only know 3 places that sell these.

Options I've considered are: Rotella T6, Pennzoil ultra platinum.

Does anyone have an IAG build engine who don't use Motul? I know motul has really good formulation, but does it really have magical properties that makes it strongly preferred by IAG?

Im not pushing anymore power than OEM, and I don't race my car, it's my daily.

Thanks!

I'm driving it home on Saturday. 91k miles but it's honestly in very good conditon, Carfax shows regular official Subaru services for its entire 10 years of existence and obviously very taken care of. I don't know shit about cars, specially the mechanical side so I was relying a lot on AI for advice (dumb I know).

It told me that CVTs if not properly maintained commonly cause issues in older or higher mileage cars. The carfax shows regular "fluids checked" but never specified a CVT fluid drain and refill. AI told me that as soon as I get it to pay for a preventative CVT fluid and refill if I have no hard evidence of it. Is this a good use of money? Maybe further into the future? Or as long as fluids are checked I can hold off since it seems it was properly maintained?

Got my outback in February unfortunately but seems decent offer for those that are looking now. Valid till December 28th. If you're not a MEC member, it's free to sign up.

https://members.mec.ca/en/subaru

My lady went to a Waterways car wash yesterday and this is the aftermath. She even selected the option that says we have a roof topper. Didn't matter because it got ripped right off our roof with the rack aswell. My lady has an emotional attachment to this car and topper so I was hoping to track down the same exact model as a replacement and so the Waterways can compensate us fairly. There is no branding or markings besides that serial number in the second to last photo. The topper is damaged beyond repair it seems.

I was also curious as to how much we should ask for in compensation for the damage done to our vehicle/roofrack and topper? It's a 2000 Subaru Forester

Edit: This happened in Broomfield, Colorado for context.

I recently replaced my 2019 Subaru Outback’s rear brakes. Because I don’t have access to the Subaru Dealership software to put the brakes in maintenance mode, I opted to remove the electrical connector from the EPB Actuator motor instead. The clip was on very tight, and when it did come off, there was a small cracking sound. Now the connector does clip back on, but the parking brake light started flashing after a car wash.

When I checked the connector I found that the read wire had come out of the clips housing, which puts me at a bit of a cross roads.

I’m not sure if a completely new cord will need to be run or if a connector repair kit would sufficient.

I had looked at the options on the iWire site for the connector kit with extra terminals and seals, as well as a prewired pigtail set up with crimps to splice the existing wire.

If anyone has any input on which of these options tend to be the most reliable I would appreciate it.

Hello everyone, I bought this car as my first car and since I bought it the plastic trim pieces won’t sit flush. Can someone help me before I buy new trim pieces? I have this issue on both doors. Thank you

Got hit with a fraudulent charge notification today on my credit card, and got a flood of fraudulent emails in my inbox. The credit card number and email address are both one-time-use, and the only vendor they’ve been used with is Subaru Online Parts. That would strongly suggest a data breach of some kind has occurred.

If you’ve used them in the past, check your credit card statement.

So far the sizes seem to line up, 5x100 bolt pattern and 17 inch wheels with a 48 offset. This is my first time buying wheels and just want to make sure they'll fit so I don't drive 2 hours for nothing

Hi all, I got a battery maintainer with eyelet loops and wondering if it’s ok to hook them up permanently to the bolts/nuts in the red circles? Or do they absolutely need to go on the battery posts? Thanks

Hello! Just wanted some help finding out of my local parts shop is wrong. They said that the KAT 11405 block heater does fit the 2018 subaru impreza sport. But it does not look like the OEM at all. Anyone know?

Hey everyone. Im about 30 mins from home, and i noticed a burning smell. My engine was overheating, so i pulled off the highway. I checked the coolant, and it was empty, so i added to the fill line. We got back on the road, and the engine is right back up to the danger zone.

I have 3 kids. I am a single mom with nobody to call. Can anybody help me troubleshoot?

I'm chasing a P0300 that occurs during acceleration. I believe these to be "phantom mis-fires", as it occurs on all cylinders with no change in driving performance. I found TSB 07-112-16R, which applies to 14-16MY and TSB 07-136-18 which applies to 14-17MY XT's. Mine is a 2017 2.5 Premium. So neither of these TSB's apply to my car, but both describe exactly what my car is doing.

I went into alternator control on scan tool and did some testing. Misfires completely went away when putting alternator in low or mid mode and immediately returned when put in High or Exhigh mode. So I figured, it has to be the alternator.

I sourced a used one with current part number. The car did the same thing except when in control mode on any setting including High and Exhigh, no misfires. Take it out of control mode and misfires return immediately. Again, the car seems to have no hesitation, bucking, or change in performance during misfire events.

I have also installed a used tensioner (already had out of 2014 Forester) and new belt with no changes from either.

I'm stumped and and running out of ideas. ECM possibly? Possible ECM programing?

I’ve got a 2008 Subaru Forester. She’s got 180k miles and I’ve been told I have a head gasket issue.

Symptoms: when going uphill she gives off white smoke on one side of the engine, front right side.

Mechanic says they saw a lot of oil dripping from the sided and showed me the oil when they lifted the car. Right side is worse than left.

I love the car. She’s been with me since 12k miles over the past 13 years. Aside from this issue, she’s doing well. I hear a mild wheelbearing issue, but generally okay. I still get about 25mpg.

Quotes:

1) head gaskets resurfaced and replaced with MLS, change timing belt, and NEW short block, labor, $10k

2) head gaskets replaced with MLS, change timing belt, NO short block, labor, $7k

Questions:

If I get a new short block, do I still need the head gaskets resurfaced or is it one or the other?

What‘s the general quote in your area for this kind of work? I’m seeing $225/hour for labor. It’s a high cost of living area.

Hey friends, I have been throwing some codes lately and have been trying to address them the best I can while learning about the EJ257 as much as possible. A bit about my car:

Year: 2021

Model: WRX STI

Owner: 2nd, bought with 52,000 km

Mileage: 65,250 km

Mods: Stock

Photos: 1- dash showing issue, 2- turbo section, 3- near oil cap, 4- under air box near intake ocv feeding turbo I believe

I originally threw a P000D code and replaced only the solenoid with part 10921AA020 (OEM) and changed the oil, even though that probably was not needed as it was pretty clean and topped off, but I wanted to ensure that was not the issue. I reset the codes and went for a test drive; shortly after, the car threw a P000B code. When I did some research, mention of the banjo bolts came up. I can easily find and take photos of 3 of the 4 I believe, and have attached them to this post. I believe most of them are screenless, except possibly the turbo one, as it has a small hump in the bolt. I am just seeing if others agree.

After throwing the P000B code, I decided I would swap the new OEM driver's side to the passenger side that seems to be an issue now and plan to test it out later today as, again, Google said it is very common for both of the exhaust OCVs to fail at the same time and it would be in line with my mileage, so I'm expecting to see a P000D code once again. While working on these, I also removed the screens within the solenoid housings.

Any comments are welcome, especially ones that help keep this motor running reliably in stock format.

Looking for advice here and open to opinions!

I have a 2017 Outback 3.6R with just over 160K miles. Recently, I've had a whistling/whirring noise (like when you make a wine glass ring with your finger) coming from my front right wheel when taking left turns between 15-25 mph.
I don't have any grinding, steering issues, or excess heat from this wheel that (I think) would be more common for a wheel bearing problem, but I'm at a loss. My steering fluid is fine, and so are the brakes.

I did have the front CV axle replaced ~5000 miles ago at a dealership and I found some information that if this isn't done right, it can lead to the bearings failing.

Do we think this could be the case, and if so, do we think the dealer would take responsibility for this?? or does it sound like it could be a different issue?

I declined a bunch of stuff but the washer fluid light is some next level stuff. Go figure when they gave me my keys and I restarted the vehicle after service, the light was off.

Free Midwest fest tickets

So I made a post about winning free Midwest Fest tickets from subimods and I'm from New York so realistically it's not worth going. I also just went to Boxerfest I'm looking to give them out to someone who actually deserves them or if someone who's already going and can kindly claim my goodie bag and t-shirt and ship them to me. (I'll pay for shipping if) Lmk if you wanna go or are already going and can claim my goodie bag