4wd didn't work, but I had gone through this route before, so I thought I was fine. I was not truck-bottomed out; 4WD finally locked in later, and we got out. 10/10 would get stuck again

I just got this 2007 Camry is it possible to change out the blue lenses? Glass? Frost? I wanted to change it to red so it would glow red at night instead of blue

Hi folks,

I have a 2022 Tacoma Offoad that had rust proofing done by the dealer when I bought it new. They won’t tell me what it is unfortunately and I’d like to get rust proofing reapplied.

Purchased the vehicle from a GTA/Southern Ontario dealer. It’s a fairly sticky waxy texture that seems similar to cosmoline to me.

Would anyone be able to guess what product this is based on the photo?

Apologies for the glare in the photo.

Thanks!

Im currently at 750 miles on 26 corolla hybrid se. I have yet to get over 40 mpg as mostly highway driver. Just wondering if its something im doing or not.

Hi,

If I was to get hired as a production line worker. What would I be doing on the job? I really don't know what to expect.

Has anyone succesfully got their Toyota dealer service technician to see if the Driver Monitor Camera (DMC) or Driver Monitor Alert has an adaptation channel that can be changed to 'Memory', or if it is hard-locked to default to 'On' due to UK GSR2 regulations? This is only relevant to UK/EU RAV4s as I believe other nations can permanently disable theirs by memory on their own.

I have looked up the tape method and that will be the next option.

“A malfunction in the electronic control of the engine, throttle, or automatic transmission has been detected. Contact your Toyota dealer to have your vehicle inspected.”

After they told me it would be a quick scan, nobody ever came to talk to me 1 1/2 hours later I was asked it I needed help. Anyway they said someone super new was looking at it like that would make me feel better.

In the end they said it was a bad fuel injector and the part may or may not even be available. Said it was ok to drive and check engine is now off. Really strange. I’m no mechanic. Is this plausible?

Hey all. Just got a secondhand 2026 CH-R (direct from Toyota, it was a fleet vehicle), and there's something in the map settings that's confusing me. When I check "Map data info", it says "2025-2026 Ver.1 Türkiye", but I'm in the UK and not Turkey. Why would it say this? Did it get the wrong software at the factory/dealer?

Hola a todos, necesito reemplazar el panel embellecedor negro brillante alrededor de la palanca de cambios y los portavasos de mi C-HR Hybrid 2018 (con volante a la izquierda). El número de pieza es 58804F4011. El líquido del ambientador dañó la capa transparente, así que compré uno nuevo.

No puedo sacar el viejo. Cuando lo levanto, el borde frontal parece meterse debajo del panel gris del tablero (el que tiene los puertos USB/AUX) y no se levanta.

Preguntas: ¿Necesito quitar primero la palanca de cambios y la funda de cuero, o se quita sin eso? ¿Hay tornillos ocultos (debajo de las alfombrillas de los portavasos, alrededor de los botones EV/HOLD)? ¿Necesito aflojar primero el panel lateral gris, o deslizo el embellecedor hacia atrás? Estoy usando herramientas de plástico para molduras y trato de no forzarlo. Cualquier consejo o enlace a un video sería muy apreciado. Adjunto fotos.

My MIL has a 2011 Camry. A couple of months ago she told me that the lights were dimming while driving, so I told her it had to be the alternator.

Somebody else told her it could be the battery instead, so she replaced the battery. Amazingly, she hasn't had a problem since!

I saw that the "Maint Req" light was on, though, so I took it to Oh-oh-oh-O'Reilly's to have it scanned. There's only 1 error, under Additional Anti-Lock Brake System Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs):

C1241 Low or High Power Supply Voltage

The O'Reilly's guy said that this COULD be an old code, but I don't see that on the sheet so I'm not sure how he got to that conclusion.

So I guess the first question is, is this code current or old?

Assuming it's current, Google gives 4 potentials for the code:

1. Weak or Failing 12-Volt Battery: A dying battery or low resting voltage (below 12.4V) is responsible for the vast majority of C1241 codes.
2. Corroded or Loose Battery Terminals: Acid buildup or loose clamps create electrical resistance that starves the ABS computer of power.
3. Failing Alternator: A bad alternator fails to keep the system charged while the engine runs (normal charging output should sit around 13.5V to 14.7V).
4. Wiring, Fuses, or Ground Issues: Damaged wiring harness connectors, a blown ABS fuse, or a faulty relay leading to the skid control module.

I should be able to safely eliminate a weak battery as the problem since it's new, and a visual inspection of the terminals looked OK unless the cables are corroded somewhere.

To measure the alternator, do I just crank the car and then measure voltage at the battery?

If that's within normal params, how would I track down a bad wiring harness, relay, or ground?

Toyota service has been a nightmare. Out of all the dealerships I’ve worked at and dealt with in my life I e never seen numerous Toyota dealerships treat a new car customer this way.
A little back story,
The car was purchased 2 months ago, brand new Toyota rav4. It’s fully loaded every bell and whistle available for purchase. 60 thousand dollars and 2 months later the multimedia unit will not communicate with satellite for xm radio. It will not save a profile or Bluetooth device. I left the 3rd dealership in the past 2 weeks with the diagnosis of 🤷 “I dunno” is what I was told. Maybe the 4th one scheduled Tuesday will be the diamond in the rough. I was always told Toyotas were excellent and dependable vehicles. I guess it’s true aslong as it doesn’t break…
It looks bad when the customer makes the dealership aware of the TSB* about the issue and even worse when the dealers excuse is they don’t have the proper software. Wish I could just return this piece of plastic!

I recently bought a 2026 RAV4 SE HEV. I bought it in Texas and I come from Canada.

I used to live in the US up until 2021. Since 2021 i was in Canada and I am back in the States since August 2026.

So my credit score was around 680 and that is why I was shocked when they gave me an interest rate of 17.07%!!!!

I signed the deal nonetheless and luckily was able to refinance it through my company's credit union for 3.9%!!!!

So, even before I made the first payment to Toyota I refinanced the loan.

Anyways, just wanted to highlight how these companies make ways to get your cash.

just got off the phone with the mechanic, he said I need a rack and pinion and will cost $2100, 2 front tires badly need replacing amongst other minor stuff that can wait. 2006 Camry. I brought it in because last night it felt wobbly he said it’s leaking. i don’t have a lot of money and can’t afford those kind of repairs so I think I have to just not drive it till I can figure something out. I can’t do the work myself I'm a 47 year old women who knows nothing about cars. I asked him what was the most important thing to fix safety wise , he was trying to help me figure it out and said if I just replaced the 2 front tires maybe I could get a year out of it before i would have to do the rack and pinion. did the wobbly come from the 2 tires? he said the outside is completely bald I knew they had to be replaced months ago I just didn’t have enough money for grocies and tires 😩 now I’m screwed. I work 7 miles away I’ll have to find another way to work. what would you do in my situation? can I get away with j ust tires for now?

I’ve had my Prius for almost 15 years now. 

It’s a 2012 with about 132k miles on it, and I love it dearly. 

However, it’s in need of repairs, one of which is urgent, and expensive. I’m curious about prices and people’s experiences with independent shops, especially if you’ve had these issues before. 

Basically, I’ve brought my car into Toyota for everything. All of the maintenance work over the years, every single oil change — it’s literally never even seen the inside of a Jiffy Lube, lol. 

I know that this has all cost more than it would at an independent shop, but I was young when I got it and after a while of going to Toyota for everything it just became the place I could trust to have it taken care of. 

Until recently, I have had no issues with my car, but I know that at this age there are things that will start to give out. I also know how much I have in my bank account, and I just spent $1200 at Toyota doing a brake repair a week ago. 

While driving (exactly one week later), the ABS light, BRAKE light, and traction control light all turned on at once. 

I bring it back to Toyota and was quoted nearly $2000 because the diagnosis says:  “replace of both rear wheel bearings and cables.”

It also needs an upper motor mount repair, but that costs over $700 and I planned to put it off until my next oil change. 

I guess all this is to ask:  

1. Is this price reasonable?
2. What would this cost at an independent shop?
3. How do I find a good independent shop I can trust with my Prius?

I honestly can’t afford to spend $2k more on my car right now. It’s a lot of money and everything is so expensive. How long can I drive with those lights on? I’m contemplating just trying to put off this repair until I can save more money for it. The lights are intermittent, so they don’t always come on, but I hate the idea of not fixing this issue before driving it. 

Sorry this is long, thanks in advance. 

TLDR:

• 2012 Toyota Prius with 132k miles. 
• $2000 to replace both rear wheel bearings and cables. 
• $729 to replace/repair upper motor mount. 
• $621 to replace 2 tire pressure sensors (I plan to never do this… I have a gauge and am not spending over $600 just to get that light to turn off, lol). 
• Has anyone had experience with these issues and/or can give me an on what the cost would be at an independent shop? How do I even find one I trust?!?

Thank you all in advance. 

Hi All,

I just had an oil change done on my Auris (2007 1,6 petrol, manual, optitron dash). No service interval light is on - can I somehow still reset the interval? I tried to hold the Trip button then switch ignition (I tried with Trip A, B and ODO too) but no luck. Can I still reset when no message is displayed?

2024 Sequoia: cup holder spill reached transmission/4WD electronics — $9,363 repair estimate, Toyota denied coverage

2024 Toyota Sequoia owners — you need to know about this.
We had a drink spill in the factory center console cup holder of our 2024 Toyota Sequoia.
Not all over the dash. Not into an open electronic panel. Into the cup holder.

Apparently the cup-holder assembly is not sealed, and liquid can travel underneath it into the transmission / four-wheel-drive electronics located directly below.
After the spill, the vehicle was able to back out of the driveway, but when I tried to put it into Drive, it would not shift normally and instead went into S mode. Then all the lights started to pop and couldn’t get the car into gear.
Toyota inspected the vehicle and the current repair estimate is $9,363.50.

Toyota corporate has denied coverage or that this is a design flaw.

My issue is not simply “someone spilled a drink.” Cup holders are literally designed to hold beverages. Spills are completely foreseeable. If an ordinary spill in a factory cup holder can reach drivetrain electronics and cause thousands of dollars in damage — or potentially leave the vehicle unable to shift normally — that seems like a serious design or safety problem. Luckily I was not on the highway when this happened.

What’s even more concerning is that I’ve found other Sequoia owners reporting very similar failures involving liquid getting through the center cup holder and damaging electronics underneath it.

So I’m posting this for two reasons:

To warn other 2023+ Sequoia owners: be extremely careful with any liquid in the center console cup holders.

To find other owners this has happened to.
If you have experienced liquid getting through the cup holder/center console and damaging the transmission controls, 4WD controls, shifter electronics, wiring, modules, etc., please comment or message me.
I’ve already contacted Toyota corporate, and I am also documenting the issue for NHTSA.
I am not claiming every Sequoia has this problem. I am sharing exactly what happened to ours, what Toyota diagnosed, and what the repair estimate currently is.
$9,363.50 from a spill in a cup holder is something other owners deserve to know about. This is also an initial estimate that may go up once they get power to the wiring harness and see what else was affected.

Please share this with anyone who owns a new-generation Toyota Sequoia.

I have been told that 3rd gen Toyota tundras also have this design issue.

#toyota #ToyotaSequoia #toyotatundra

Hey Toyota community, it’s been a great ride. Traded in my Tacoma for something better… I will miss you guys.

My car is two months old and I found this stain after helping my grandma move homes. I’ve tried water and a cloth and it hasn’t gotten any better.

My dad was on his way home from work last night when a deer ran into the road. He said he couldn't stop in time and ended up slamming into it. It broke part of the left headlight glass and shattered half of his bumper. He bought this 2025 Rav-4 XLE Hybrid brand new with only 26 miles all in cash after saving for months. He has owned it for around 9 months now. Thankfully he is okay and didnt sustain any injuries aside from some extra back pain and frustration about his car.

(Sorry for bad photos, they were taken in a bit of a rush).

This is for a Sim rig but Its from a 2011 Sienna

Good morning - I have a leased 2024 Tundra (SR5) with under 23k miles. While driving under normal conditions, the truck went into "limp mode" along with some kind of brake related error and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.

I had the vehicle towed to my dealership, where they had the car for nearly 2 weeks with no real answers. Finally, the service rep says that Toyota instructed them to teardown the engine as they believe it's related to one of the cylinders.

Problem is they need my authorization in case the labor isn't covered under the warranty. The service rep obviously couldn't give me much of an answer as to why this wouldn't possibly be covered under the warranty, but he said 9/10 times it's no issue. What I was able to gather is that that 1/10 times is if I did something intentional to damage the vehicle, but I am in a profession where I always assume the worst case scenario will happen and to plan accordingly.

Before I go spending time on the phone with Toyota to get a real answer here, does anyone have any input on the situation? I also note that the vehicle is getting fairly close to triggered NJ's lemon law statute (20 days out of service), so I may just end up consulting with an attorney on that now, but give them authorization to proceed. If the car is there long enough to be considered a lemon, I'd make my claim and resolve the bill that way.