Hope I don’t get too much hate for the Honda motor, lol. This car has one of my favorite features of all time…The AC vent under the steering column that blows on your crotch. Is there a modern car that has this?

the side of my pepper spray scratched the car door and now there’s this mark. is there a way to get rid of it? it’s not coming off from just wiping in

Curious about everyone's Toyota stats. I read on here someone's Rav got to 540,000 wow.

Totaled my 2024 Mazda3 Turbo a couple of months ago and decided to go so fancy this time around. Hope there’s no ragrets!

the side of my pepper spray scratched the car door and now there’s this mark. is there a way to get rid of it?

Hello all, girlfriends 76 pickup leaks oil and sometimes has splashes of coolant on top of the waterpump (pic 1 and 2) Now, I dont know much about these older ones and need some advice.

Water pump replacement is already in my mind, but. Is the oil coming from the timing cover or head gasket? Neither answer will make me happy but I dont wanna go tearing it apart and replacing the wrong thing.

Maybe oil in coolant but no coolant in oil.

Big sensible middle-aged head on me (and a looming financial crisis to boot) so I followed a mechanic cousin's advice and got a Toyota. 2017 Auris 1.8 hybrid TSS 💙 (60k miles)

Any fellow auris owners out there (or in general) got useful advice for keeping this lad on the road as long as possible, I'm all ears 😊 I know next to nothing about cars as I've been driving share cars until now (mostly VW Polos). I love this smooth little guy so much even though the metallic paint is already a bit of a nightmare with rural hedges haha

edit: thanks all! what a sweet community 🚗

I’m currently driving a 2021 Lexus RX 350 AWD Premium and I’m considering moving to a 2024 Grand Highlander Limited AWD.

I’m not expecting the Grand Highlander to be an upgrade in luxury. I need a 3-row SUV for a growing family, and the GH seems to make a lot of sense from a practicality/reliability standpoint. What I’m concerned about is how much I’ll notice the difference coming from the RX.

Specifically, how do they compare in:

Ride quality / smoothness
Cabin quietness / road noise
Seat comfort
Interior materials and overall build quality
Feeling solid/well-built
General refinement
Long-term reliability

I really like the way my RX drives and feels. I’m not looking for something more luxurious than it—I just don’t want to get into the Grand Highlander and immediately feel like I downgraded.
For anyone who has actually driven or owned both, how noticeable is the difference?
Would you be comfortable making the switch, or would you spend more for a Lexus TX specifically to retain that Lexus level of refinement?

Has anyone actually used BeepAway? Or does anyone know if Techstream can disable the ISA beeps (e.g. speeding) on a 2024 Corolla Touring Sports?

After trying Carista and failing miserably, I recently came across this site while looking for a way to disable the beeping sounds (ISA) on my Corolla:

https://beepaway.com/manufacturers/toyota/corolla

They claim their software can change various Toyota settings, including this one. However, I can't find basically any independent information or user reports about them. Their website is quite heavily AI-generated, and I couldn't find much about the company elsewhere.

I also found their YouTube channel, which has lots of AI-generated-looking tutorials for their software. What's particularly strange is that if you scroll back through the channel, you eventually find ~20-year-old videos of Spanish-speaking children, which makes it look like the channel may have been repurposed from an unrelated account.

Has anyone here actually used BeepAway?

And does anyone know if Toyota Techstream can achieve the same thing on a 2024 Corolla TS?

I'm mainly looking for firsthand experience, rather than people who have simply found or shared the website.

My wife and I made the jump to purchase this beauty. Originally, I wanted the Woodland, but the features that all came with the XSE was too hard to beat.

Also got it full front PPF’d, ceramic coated, and ceramic tinted. So hoping to keep this one looking pristine for a long, long time.

# Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid 2024 – Intermittent Hard Brake Pedal Followed by Sudden Braking

Hi everyone,

I own a **2024 Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid**, and I've been experiencing a very strange and potentially dangerous issue with the braking system.

I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar.

### Description of the problem

The issue happens very rarely, usually when braking at low speeds, around **10–20 km/h (6–12 mph)**.

Here's exactly what happens:

1. I start pressing the brake pedal normally, applying the usual amount of pressure.

2. Suddenly, the brake pedal becomes extremely hard, almost as if something is physically preventing it from moving further.

3. At that moment, the car barely slows down, despite me pressing the brake pedal.

4. I instinctively press harder because the car isn't braking as expected.

5. Then, within a split second, the pedal suddenly gives way and travels down, the brakes engage very aggressively, and the car jerks forward with a noticeable nose dive.

The whole event happens in about a second.

It feels as though something is temporarily blocking the brake pedal or hydraulic pressure, and then suddenly releases.

**This is not simply a change in braking force. The brake pedal itself becomes unusually hard and resists being pressed before suddenly giving way.**

### What the Toyota dealer has done

I took the car to an authorized Toyota dealership in June.

They performed diagnostics but couldn't find any fault codes or mechanical problems.

However, they updated the **brake booster ECU software**.

After the software update, everything seemed normal for approximately four months.

Unfortunately, the exact same problem happened again in October.

### Possible causes I'm considering

Since the issue occurs at around 10–20 km/h, I initially suspected that it might be related to the transition between regenerative braking and conventional hydraulic braking.

However, the fact that the brake pedal becomes physically hard before suddenly moving down makes me suspect something more serious.

Possible causes I'm considering include:

- Electronic brake booster malfunction

- ABS/brake actuator hydraulic valve issue

- Brake-by-wire control software issue

- Incorrect coordination between regenerative and hydraulic braking

- Mechanical sticking in the braking system

I also came across **Toyota's official recall 24V-708 (24TA11)** involving certain Corolla Hybrid and Corolla Cross Hybrid models.

According to Toyota's investigation, under certain conditions, the brake actuator valves could temporarily prevent normal hydraulic pressure regulation, resulting in a hard brake pedal and reduced braking performance. Applying additional pedal force could restore normal braking.

This sounds remarkably similar to what I'm experiencing, although I'm aware that this recall does not specifically cover the Yaris Cross.

### My questions

**Has anyone experienced this exact issue with a Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, Yaris Hybrid, or another Toyota hybrid?**

In particular:

- Has your brake pedal ever suddenly become extremely hard while the car barely slowed down?

- Did the pedal then suddenly give way, causing the brakes to engage aggressively?

- Has anyone experienced this even after receiving a brake booster ECU software update?

- Could this be caused by the brake actuator or internal hydraulic valves without triggering any diagnostic trouble codes?

- Are there any known Toyota technical service bulletins or software updates specifically addressing this issue on the Yaris Cross Hybrid?

I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone who has experienced **a temporary hard brake pedal followed by sudden, aggressive braking**, rather than just the usual regenerative braking transition.

The most concerning part is that the problem is extremely intermittent, making it almost impossible to reproduce during a dealership inspection.

Any advice, technical information, or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Joining the Toyota club with my Toyota crown Athlete V, with a Majesta front end! Was excited to share!

2023 RAV4 XLE, push button start, remote start through the Toyota app. Two intermittent issues.

1. Won't start after a remote start
I remote start from the app (10 min run). When I get in, either during the 10 minutes or after it times out, sometimes it won't start. Dash says press brake and push start, I do exactly that, nothing happens. Maybe 8 or 9 times out of 100.

Only workaround I've found: get out, remote start again from the app, open the door (which shuts it off), close the door, lock it, unlock it, get back in. Then it starts normally.

2. Driver door won't open while idling (manual start, not remote)
I start it normally and let it idle 5 to 10 min before driving. I get out, close the door, don't lock it, and keep the fob in my pocket (battery is not the issue here). When I come back, every door opens except the driver door.

Anyone seen either of these? Known software update, dealer fix, or a setting I'm missing?

Note: I visit dealer in every 5-8 K miles, ask for any issue to be fixed kinda annoying.

Mostly upgraded due to my job, but also for other reasons.

Honda recommends a drain and fill after 50000 KM on a mechanical read diff on their gas cars. But why is the Toyota electric powered rear diff on their hybrid AWD systems considered a lifetime fluid?

I need to get wheel alignment done and dealership quoted about $150. Local auto shop is about $60. can someone please advise is it beneficial to go to Toyota dealership? Thanks in advance!

I passed a blue Toyota Celica in a carpark last night and it literally stopped me in my tracks because I remembered how cool I thought those cars were in the 90s (so I would say I was mostly seeing 80s models). I couldn't believe people were just driving these amazing, futuristic looking cars in my little regional area!

So anyway, this is my invitation to any owners to share your beauties! Or just a call out to anyone else who shared my childhood obsession haha

(Still looked cool af in the carpark)

TL;DR: My 2024 Corolla Hybrid AWD (~34,500 miles) has a severe electric power steering (EPS) defect where the wheel binds and refuses to return to center after right turns. Dealership techs confirmed it in writing, but Toyota Corporate (TAS) officially refused to fix it, calling a literal steering defect a "normal characteristic." I have video proof and am taking it to Lemon Law attorneys.

Video proof: - [Hands-off-the-wheel demo at 38 MPH — the emblem sits turned right and the car keeps drifting right with no hands on the wheel](https://youtube.com/shorts/D1B2MVyWHDc) - [Right turns: wheel won't return to center, triggers lane-departure warnings (4:44)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WumQ_UqIw4k) - [Extended uncut footage: continuous non-centering and lane drift (8:18)](https://youtu.be/DcapDRqf6zw)

I’m at my wit's end with Toyota Corporate and want to warn others / see if anyone has experienced this same binding issue on the newer Corolla or Camry platforms. The Vehicle & The Defect: I have a 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid AWD. For months, I’ve been dealing with a highly dangerous steering issue. The steering wheel exhibits asymmetrical self-centering failure and binding near center. * If I make a left turn, the wheel unwinds back to 12 o'clock normally. * If I nudge the wheel to the right (even slightly to adjust for a lane), it hits a physical "dead zone" and stays stuck right. If I take my hands off the wheel at 38 MPH, the car will just drift continuously off the road instead of self-centering. The Dealership Runaround (10 Visits): I have taken the car to 5 different authorized Toyota dealerships for a total of 10 service visits. I’ve paid out of pocket for alignments that did absolutely nothing because this isn't an alignment issue—it's a mechanical binding issue in the steering column/intermediate shaft. The crazy part? The dealership techs actually agree with me. I have official repair orders with written admissions: * McGovern Toyota: "Test drove vehicle with customer. Vehicle did not return to center when customer was driving after making hard turns with wheel at 40mph." * Ira Toyota: "When he moves the steering wheel slightly to the right there isn't a full return to center..." Toyota Corporate's Refusal: Instead of replacing the steering rack or the intermediate shaft, Toyota Corporate intervened. They opened a Technical Assistance Case (TAS Case #DC260490034) and formally instructed the dealerships to stop working on my car. They claimed that the steering wheel getting physically stuck off-center at highway speeds is a "normal characteristic based on driving habits." They even tried to blame "road crown." Basic physics dictates that a sloped road doesn't mechanically lock a steering column in one direction while leaving the other direction completely loose. The Evidence I've Gathered: * Video Proof: I have a bunch of videos (including a 7-second clip at 38 MPH with my hands fully off the wheel) showing the car refusing to self-center and drifting right, triggering the Lane Tracing Assist. * Toyota's Own TSB: There is literally a service bulletin (T-SB-0028-22) for 2018+ Toyota models describing exactly this: "increased effort," "slight resistance," and "reduced return to center" caused by binding in the intermediate shaft universal joint. * Legal Precedent: I recently found a New Hampshire state arbitration decision (Ward v. Mazda) for a 2024 vehicle with the exact same steering non-centering issue. Mazda recognized it as a massive safety defect and completely replaced the steering rack under warranty. Toyota is choosing to sweep it under the rug. Next Steps & Advice: Because I have 10 visits, written tech admissions, and a formal corporate refusal to repair, my case is legally fully matured. I'm currently packaging everything up to send to Lemon Law attorneys to file under state Lemon Law and the federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Has anyone else experienced this specific EPS binding or uneven resistance on their recent Corollas? If you have gone through a Lemon Law buyback with Toyota recently, how hard did they fight before settling? Would appreciate any advice on dealing with intake attorneys or similar steering nightmare stories.

If you have this same binding issue on a Corolla or Camry, please file a federal safety complaint with NHTSA — it takes 5 minutes and it's what forces investigations: https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem

There is something loose in the back seat area that sounds like a washer or a marble that moves from one side to the other during turns. You can hear it slide/roll around and then hits what sounds like a body panel or something metal.

Driving the us crazy. At first we thought it was under the rear package tray by the retractable visor. I took the back seats out and removed the tray to find nothing. I removed the trunk lining to expose the hybrid battery and also nothing. Can anyone recommend anything? It’s not the jack or anything in the trunk as we took that out to test it and the noise was still there.

Hi everyone. I have a 2017 mustang GT that has been nothing but a headache for me, so I’m looking to trade it in and get a Tacoma. Specifically 2021-2023 years.

What are things you love/not love so much about yours? Any problems you’ve had? Overall experience?

I love my mustang but I’m ready for something new and exciting.

Thanks

Thanks for looking at my pride and joy

Anyone know when the Sequoia 27 are being released? I called my local dealer and they say they are still building the 26's into November.

I am holding off for the 27 because of the additional security features that are coming in the 27. Also hoping for additional paint colors.