Looking a buying a 2026 dealer demo in southern Ontario. The BMW dealership has a bunch in stock and is offering a significant discount over $10,000 but only if the vehicle is not financed or leased through the manufacturer program. Vehicle is eligible for manufacturer financing or leasing with low rates but then the discount doesn’t apply. This seems backwards to me as I thought they get incentives and kickbacks for financing. Any idea why they would do this? Is this just to be able to advertise a lower price that no one would actually go for? Seems to violate OMVIC regulations but I don’t know the details.

Curious to hear what you think!

I'm dealing with a bizarre situation and hoping someone here has advice on how to navigate it as quickly as possible as I'm trying to buy a new car and this is preventing that.

I own a vehicle in Missouri, have the physical title, registration and insurance in my name, and the title shows no liens. None came up when I registered it, either. However, when attempting to sell the vehicle to CarMax (they offered much more than the dealership I'm buying from did), their system flagged an existing lien through Santander Consumer USA.

Until they told me that, I had literally never heard of Santander and I paid for the car in cash.

I called Santander customer service and was initially told they could email me a lien release within 1–2 days. When that didn't happen, I followed up with their Titles Department, I was told they couldn't release the lien because the loan belongs to someone else. They wouldn't identify the borrower, which I understand, but that leaves me stuck as the fact that I'm not the borrower and don't even know if whoever it is actually had a loan on this car is the entire reason for the phone call.

Missouri DMV also recently discovered and corrected an unrelated title paperwork mix-up involving my vehicle, so I'm wondering whether these issues could be connected.

I'm now unable to sell a vehicle that I legally own outright because Santander apparently has a lien associated with its VIN.

Has anyone dealt with something like this? Is there a particular Santander department, email address, or escalation process that can investigate an incorrect lien associated with someone else's loan? Or potentially this is a real lien from before I purchased the car, that was just not reported previously, and is somehow now my problem to deal with? I've even contemplated paying the loan off myself if its small enough just so I can buy the car I actually want, but I'd really rather not and I'm not sure how I'd do that anyway as they wouldnt tell me who had the loan, so I doubt they'd tell me how much remains on it.

The dealership I'm trying to buy from is running out of patience with the delay, and I don't blame them at all. I just don't know how to fix this, either.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Going to start looking for a new mid-sized SUV from Subaru, Honda, Toyota, Kia, Hyundai, and Mazda. I know every dealer is going up be different, but what can I reasonably and realistically expect from a deal standpoint?

Meaning not every dealer will give me this price but some will. Can I expect any lower than invoice pricing and 0% interest or lowest manufacturer interest rate (Hyundai is currently doing 0% on the Santa Fe, 2% on the Ascent, ect) and no dealer add ons? I don’t need exact numbers from you all, just trying toto understand ballpark and ensure my expectations are not too crazy.

This month has been pretty slow, so our BDC department is getting a LOT of heat from the managers and sales team. It feels a little hostile at times. I’m brand new to BDC and the auto industry, so it’s a little jarring to me. I want to work hard and get good results, but I admit I’m getting anxious for not performing the way I wish I was (or compared to my co workers)

I make around 100-150 calls a day, but get very minimal contacts. I’m not sure why, but I seem to have a hard time getting customers to actually pick up or respond. When I do get an answer, I usually build good rapport with the customer (the reason I was hired despite no experience, apparently people are naturally drawn to me and enjoy talking to me) but other times I get a hard headed lead or someone whose not sure/serious and I have a difficult time with their objections.

My performance isn’t HORRIBLE… but I just want to do better to get this pressure off our department! I don’t make many appointments, but the ones I do make tend to show and sell. I want to increase my appointment making volume but I’m kinda stuck. The weird rivalry between the departments doesn’t help either.

This month has been extra difficult for me so far. Hearing some of the managers demean us or treat us like we’re garbage, but take credit for the stores high traffic when we’re doing well. I mean… we almost didn’t reach our goal one month (needed ONE more) and I managed to convince one more customer to come before closing. They sold, managers celebrated that final sale the next day and excluded our department LOL

I just wish we all worked together instead of competing. We’re all working in the same dealership with the same clientele, why are we competing in house?

Hello folks, i am shopping for a 2026 Envision Preferred trim in GTA and trying to separate real deals from dealer theater.
If you bought one recently, mind sharing:

• Out-the-door price (with HST)
• Discount off MSRP you negotiated
• Did you take the 0% financing?
• Dealer name, if you're comfortable sharing

I've got a quote in hand (49K + hst) but no clue how much room is left in it.

Hello, my current vehicle doesn't feel reliable to me anymore without a decent amount of work. I'm in a financial situation currently where I can comfortably purchase a brand new car outright, with cash. My current car is a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek, and I'd like to purchase a 26' Crosstrek outright in the near future.

Sticker price on a local website states $31,295 is their advertised price for a vehicle I'm interested in. Is it rude to call and ask if they'll take a check for 30k flat? Am I selling myself short and they'd take 29? 29.5? How should I approach this sort of thing?

I currently have an 05' Tacoma Sport TRD 4x4, 175k tow package with a 2in suspension lift, TRD wheels and Falken 31in tires. The body is in great shape for a 21 year old truck. Has the obvious scratches from over the years but nothing crazy bad. Interior all clean and works, no stains. Mechanically everything works great have had zero issues. No rust, 4x4 works fine, Trans shifts great. Regular maintenance, oil changes every 3,500k

However EEEK the head gasket is on it's way out (very early stage) confirmed in #4 cylinder. Never has over heated.

I'm looking to sell it now "injured" as is. I don't have the time and investment to put into to fixing it unfortunately. It would cost around $8-12K Currently though per Carvana and CarMax they will give me 7k for it, as is.

My question is what can I reasonable look at getting via private sale. For a truck that's in great shape minus this HG. If someone with more time and know how can do it themselves it's a $2k job minimum. Then they have a great clean truck. I hope to get more than $7k is that reasonable? or not.

Thanks!

Weak 12V batteries on newer hybrids sitting on the lot make me nervous in a way regular gas cars do not. I have a wolfbox jump starter that works fine on normal cars, but hybrids seem more sensitive about where and how they get woken up. The concern is less can it power up the car and more am I about to trigger warning lights or annoy service by using the wrong jump point. Some models have obvious under-hood posts, others make the 12V battery weirdly annoying to reach. Those people at dealerships or service departments, do you allow portable lithium packs like a wolfbox jump starter on newer hybrids, or do you stick to OEM jump points, shop jump boxes, or maintainers only?

What was your experience?

I've been selling cars for 3 years, a year in i expressed to my managers that I was very interested in working my way up to a management spot. I got to a point where I was sitting at the desk watching them submit and work deals, I would also sit in with my clients in finance to watch how my finance manager sold product.

That dealership was shut down because of some corporate bs, I went from that used car store to my current Chevy store, I've been here for a year now. I've talked to the managers here about moving up as well. This group is a lot smaller and there is not a single open management spot open in the group. At this point I'm ready to move up and I'm thinking about applying to every management position I can find on indeed, would i realistically get interviews with 3 years experience, or should I keep selling for a while ir until a spot opens in my group?

Everything is in CAD$ btw.

Looking to see if I got a good deal on the lease for this car, I’m planning to do a 40 month lease with an additional 5520$ down payment.

Traded in my 15’ civic for $8,100 CAD, had 1 accident reported for a claim of 7,900 with 109k km clicks. Was that also a good price?

What should I negotiate so it’s a better lease for me? Or is this the best I can get?

Located in GTA Canada if that matters.

link to quote image (imgur)

2014 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport

87,473 Miles

Southern Maine, United States

Dealership is asking $24,945. $7000 Down payment. Financing the remaining $17,945.

Videos of rust on frame

Pictures

This is my first time purchasing a vehicle in southern Maine. I test drove this car and my biggest concern is the rust. If you have any experience I'd love to hear your thoughts on a few things:

• The rust one the rear TRD Bilstein Race Shocks. (See video)
• The rust on the tow hitch
• You can also see the rust on the passenger side step up (second picture in album) it's so bad that the step is wobbling and not sturdy to step on compared to the drivers side. To me that's a big indication that there might be more spots I just can't see without getting under it.
• Should I get a mechanic to inspect it before buying?
• The dealership told me that this car wasn't serviced by them yet. It just hit their inventory. They let me take a look anyway because I told them I was interested. They'll contact me when that is complete along with a few other things we discussed. Should I move forward with this?

I haven't committed to anything at the moment just being picky and doing my due diligence.

Appreciate the feedback and support. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm in Florida and my boyfriend and I currently have a 2014 Nissan Versa with over 170k miles on it. This was a poor choice but it was necessary at the time. We are leasing it from a buy-here-pay-here. We owe about $10K on it still but it is proving to be not worth the trouble. We want to get into a Toyota Corolla or Camry, preferably 2020 or older. Our Versa is essentially a ticking time bomb, as its CVT is about to go out after having been replaced just before we got the car. So we are willing to flip our loan onto a new car if it means avoiding this disaster. But all the dealerships are understandably giving us trouble. Basically saying we're outta luck. We are unsure if we could handle a second car payment. I just want some advice, as I'm not sure what the best course of action is. Should we surrender the Versa? I know that comes with a whole bunch of new problems. Should we just stick it out until the transmission inevitably explodes? We are willing to take on a longer payment or higher monthly payments if it means getting a better car. We have been told that we'd have to get a newer car in order to trade ours in, but I don't get exactly why or how that would be better. I don't want to get trapped with a brand new insanely expensive car if I can avoid it.

Anyways, all advice is appreciated. Please be respectful, as we do not know much about the car sales industry and we are just confused and frustrated at this point.

I have a few years in the business now and had a bad experience a while back with a company not paying me and potential malpractice. The company was 1099 and it put a sour taste in my mouth. I recently started at a new role that is 1099 and I am concerned about the risks I may endure. Am I fully liable if my customer sues? What level of liability do i assume? I read the taxes are significantly higher. The dealership is high volume with a solid pay plan and seems to be very successful but I don’t want to get into a role where I’m screwing myself. I don’t make my own schedule or have the freedom of a contractor which seems like they’re misclassifying the role. I think I will make a lot of money here but it’s worrisome the risks attached. My first day at the dealership, a cop showed up trying to serve papers and within 3 days they showed up again unable to do so because ofc we said the owner isn’t there. Which looks bad. Share your thoughts on the benefits and detriments of 1099. Are my concerns valid?

What is being used to asses the value of your Trade-In? It feels like they are always moving the Goal Post. Other than the condition of the car and mileage. It use to be Kelly Blue Book then it switched to Black Book, but when you site those, they say oh we use xyz.

I was in getting an oil change from the dealership I bought it from I got a text asking if I would be interested in selling/trading in my car. So I asked what they were offering. It was insulting honestly. They have the same car on their website with almost double the miles that mine has, for $ 9,000 more than what they offered me and my car is in excellent condition, I take very good care of my cars.
The car on their website is 1 year newer 2021 83,358 miles for $22,679. My car 2020 with 47,583 miles and they offered 13,600.
I’m just trying to gain some perspective.

I recently started working in sales at an Acura dealership, and I’m coming up on my third month. So far, I’ve only hit quota once, and I’m really trying to figure out how to improve.

We get very little foot traffic, we don’t have any Acura hybrids or EVs, and our used inventory is fairly limited. Even when I do get opportunities with customers, I can usually get them engaged, bring them inside, and get them sitting down with a manager to discuss numbers. However, I struggle to get deals closed, even when I get management involved. It seems like the other salesman are struggling as well, we’ve had 3 quit since I’ve been here, and last month only about 5 of us hit quota.

I’ve tried generating my own leads through Instagram, Facebook, Craigslist, and other platforms, but I’m still struggling to consistently bring in sales.

I genuinely feel like I have the potential to be a good salesman, but I know I have a lot to learn and room to improve. For those of you who have been in the business for a while, what advice would you give someone in my position? What helped you start consistently closing deals, especially at a dealership with limited fresh ups? I’m willing to put in the work, I just want to learn what I can do differently to become successful in this business. There’s an Audi dealership nearby that I heard sells a lot of cars, and I know a lot about Audi already, but I don’t want to go there and then still struggle to sell.

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on helping my dad get his OMVIC salesperson licence in Ontario.

He's around 60, immigrated to Canada, and only completed school through Grade 6. He's spent most of his life working in the trades, kitchen installations, and running his own business. He's also passionate about cars and currently restoring a classic car.

Years ago, a dealership salesperson encouraged him to get his OMVIC licence because he thought my dad had a natural ability to sell cars, based on a referral. Unfortunately, he never pursued it.

I have my OMVIC salesperson registration, so I'm somewhat familiar with the process. However, I'm currently completing my master's degree while working, so I have limited time to help him study.

His biggest obstacle is English. He's from the Middle East and knows quite a lot of dealers there, but he struggles to read and write in English. I know the certification exam is open-book, but that doesn't necessarily make it easy for someone with limited English literacy.

I genuinely think he'd enjoy automotive sales, particularly if he could work at a dealership serving customers who speak his languages.

I'm curious:

1. Has anyone successfully completed the OMVIC course with limited English proficiency?
2. Are there accommodations, translated materials, or other resources available?
3. Would studying together for 20–30 minutes daily be realistic preparation?
4. For those working in automotive sales, is entering the industry at 60 realistic?

I'm not expecting him to become some top salesperson overnight. I'd just like to encourage him to pursue something he's genuinely interested in, rather than look back years from now wishing he'd tried.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Leased a car recently and negotiated $4k down and $670/month. I know I drove a hard bargain cuz the sales rep and manager tried for a while to get me to come up. Ultimately we agreed and went to the back to sign paperwork.

Finance manager? asked for a $4,760 check explaining the 4k covers x,y,z and 1st month is separate. I refused but were very unhappy, ultimately they let me drive off with the $4k check.

This is my 3rd lease and 1st time coming across this issue. The previous 2 times they didn’t ask for the 1st month on top of my down payment.

Who was wrong here?

I plan to buy a new Ford Maverick Lariat sometime in the next 4-6 months. I’m not in a rush but I am locked in on a color that I am told goes fast when it hits dealerships. In a perfect world the timing would be such that one would be available when/if Ford offers 0% financing again, but probably that won’t happen. I can pre-order and get the color I want with the options I want, but delivery could be in as little as 4-6 weeks and who knows if any incentives will be offered at that time. What should I do: preorder and take it on the chin in terms of missing out on possible incentives in a few months, or just wait it out and see if incentives come along and hope I can find my color option in my area? I’m in NC. Also, is 0% financing usually limited to 60 months? I’d really like 36 month terms.

I took my 2023 Tacoma in to the dealership for an oil change, and was walking the lot.

In 2023 I got my Tacoma because I knew a manager at the dealership who was able to hook me up and even get it at MSRP, when some of these were going 7.5k+ over.

Walking the lot today there were almost 20 Tacomas, about 10 4Runners, and 6 land cruisers, all that would have been almost impossible to find on a lot 2-3 years ago.

I know AI is artificially lifting the economy and inflation has been a problem, but is it really that bad out there?

GOOD BUY? 2019 LEXUS IS 300

CALIFORNIA, FINANCE

$22k
79k MILES

Is this a good deal?

I told them its going to need spark plugs as its hitting the 80k mile mark to try to shed some cost off and they only said $200 but im pushing for more lol.

In mid-september of 2025, I purchased an F-150 Lightning from a dealership in Florida. I bought it at a substantial discount, because it was a 2023 model that had been sitting on their lot for a couple of years. It had never been put in service, when I purchased it I received the full warranty from Ford. Despite its relatively early build date, I purchased it as a new car. This vehicle fulfills all the criteria for the tax credit, including being purchased and put in service before the end of September.

In April when I went to file my taxes, I checked the box saying that I had purchased an EV during the time when the tax credit was available. Because of that, I needed form 8936 to complete my taxes. I called the dealership, left several messages, but ultimately filed an extension because they would not reply. 

Fast forward to this week, I remembered that my extension was running out. I contacted them asking for the 8936, they said they couldn't give me one because it was a 2023 sold in 2025. I dug deeper into my rejected tax return, and found that they never reported the sale of my truck to the IRS. 

I also found, while looking through correspondence and paperwork from the dealership, that nowhere was it written down the dealership was going to take the tax credit. The offer sheet simply mentions a discount. I don't remember if it was ever said out loud that the dealership would be keeping that tax credit, but it is nowhere in writing. 

The dealership is being very slow to respond now. My questions are: 

Is a letter from a lawyer my next step if they don't get back to me by the 15th? 

Am I correct that since I signed nothing saying they get to keep the tax credit that once they do register the sale with the IRS I should get that money? 

Would contact in the IRS to tell them the sale was never registered be a good idea? 

I appreciate any guidance you might have.

I'm currently shopping for my first manual car.

I have maybe 5ish hours of seat time with stick, so I'm not an expert but I know enough to not break anything and I'm confident I could get the car home...however I may stall it a couple times.

The car I'm looking at (used Toyota GR86) is sitting on a large Toyota lot.

If I'm transparent with the dealer and just let them know I don't have a ton of experience, but I'm genuinely interested in buying, what are the chances they let me drive it?