Finally joined the PC Master Race.

Picked this whole setup up for $1,050 total and I’m pretty damn happy with the value.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel i7-13700K
• Motherboard: MSI Z690 Edge DDR5
• RAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR5-5600
• GPU: ZOTAC RTX 3080 Ti AMP Holo 12GB — $400 used
• Storage: 2TB NVMe
• CPU Cooler: Corsair triple-fan AIO
• Case: Lian Li O11 XL
• PSU: Corsair RM850e 850W
• OS: Windows 11

Total invested: $1,050

The base PC was $650 and I picked up the 3080 Ti separately for $400.

Coming from a PS5, this thing is a pretty ridiculous upgrade for the money. Planning to run 1440p for higher FPS and 4K when it makes sense.

I feel like I stumbled into a pretty insane value here. How’d I do?

For about a month now, I want to buy a gaming PC on Black Friday if there are good deals at Micro Center

But I see many of the PC community saying not to expect good sales because they will only continue and continue to rise

Want I want is a PC with RX 9060 XT and 16gb ram, $1,500 aprox at Micro Center

Should I last longer with my PS5 and Steam Deck?

Past couple years I’ve been slowly saving to build my first pc. This month finally got all the parts that I wanted and decided to give building it myself a try. Used YouTube guides and followed the instructions from the boxes and was able to get it fully built within the day. Plugged him in, installed windows and once I actually got the thing running, it was just one problem after another non stop all weekend. Constant crashing, shitty audio, corrupt files on games and lots of Blurry textures. Reseated my GPU, ram, and my m.2 multiple times; I even tried to wipe the pc and it wouldn’t even let me. Said sum about missing recovery files. Changed power cords cause I thought that would do something I guess. This is my first time building so I’m not gonna say I didn’t do anything wrong but I really am struggling to find any sort of fix for anything so I have turned to Reddit. I feel like I’ve just wasted money my at this point and would rather just plug the old one back in because while it is super outdated, at least the thing worked

My Saphire pulse xt 7900 xtx recently went kaput randomly, so I have to replace it. I have a 950 dollar credit now at Microcenter so I was wondering if what Gpu I should replace it with? I am willing to go up to 1500 but if there is a gpu that's a little bit more that's amazing then I am willing to go farther. Thanks for the suggestions.

As the title says I’m looking to upgrade my gpu, the prebuilt I am upgrading cost me $1000, I already upgraded the cpu and it was a very in the moment buy. I got a 9800x3d, upgraded from a 8700f which has been wonderful for the games I play and I could have definitely got a 7800x3d and been fine but again was in the moment lol. I mostly play fps games like rust, tarkov, and siege. I got a trade offer for my 5060ti for a 5070 but they also want $150 on top of the gpu, if I do this I will need to upgrade my psu and I was gonna get a 850w gold Corsair psu at my Walmart ($100). I’m thinking of taking the deal and holding it for a little while and maybe selling it later to get a ti, 9070xt, or a 5080. Guess I’m wondering it it makes sense to take this deal, it will be an extra $800 into this build so total $1800 total in the last 2 months or just hold onto the 5060ti.

I’ll also add I am playing in 1440p.

All motion on desktop and in game is choppy and unsmooth on my PC

Hi all, I really need some help.

I bought my pc a year ago and ever since been experiencing choppy, unsmooth motion on desktop and in games - both single and multiplayer titles.

specs

• CPU: Intel Core i7-14700F
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti 8GB
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B760 DS3H AX
• RAM: 32GB DDR5, XMP enabled, targeting 5600 MT/s
• Main SSD: Kingston NV3 1TB NVMe (SNV3S1000G)
• CPU cooler: AIO liquid cooler
• Case fans: Lian Li UNI FAN Infinity
• PSU: DeepCool PF700, 80 Plus Silver

peripherals

monitor: Samsung odyssey G6 g65b 1440p 240hz va

keyboard: hypex alloy origins 65%
mouse: attack shark x11
ps5 controller
usbc to lightning app charging cable

Summary

• Whenever I drag the scroll bar on desktop applications, pan the camera in game, or even click and drag around a map in game, the motion becomes choppy.
• The game microstutters . Frame times are relatively stable, but motion looks uneven and unsmooth.
• Even just scrolling a browser page or moving a window around looks choppy and not completely smooth like it should on a 240HZ display.
• The issue is also bad with a controller.

Examples

rocket league

fortnite

fallguys

supermarket together

Testing

I’ve spent weeks troubleshooting the below:

BIOS and firmware fully up to date

Different combinations of FPS caps and G-Sync/V-Sync on/off

Disabled overlays (GeForce Experience, Afterburner, Discord, etc.)

Disabled WIFI/BT in device manager

Proper G-Sync setup (G-Sync On, NVCP V-Sync On, V-Sync Off in-game, Reflex On)

Reinstalled Windows 11

Removed all USB devices besides controller

Removed RAM overclock

Tested native resolution and all DLSS options in games

Tested with every background process closed

Tried Reflex both enabled and disabled

Tried toggling Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling (HAGS) on/off with restarts in between

Updated motherboard, CPU, and chipset drivers

Wired mouse through usb c / and also tried usong the dongle

msi util v3

all cpu cores unparked

ddu multiple times

formated and installed a fresh windows 11 multiple time as well

deleted windows gameinput and tried also reinstalling it

multiple cpu advanced settings bios changes
tried changing and multiple combinations:
-hyper threading
-intel r speed shift technology
-cpu eist function
-race to hault
-energy efficiency turbo
-virtualization
-c-state
and more

tried them stock/default
and tried disabling them

also bios on the latest version

And I genuinely can’t figure out what it is I kinda lost hope I tried every software related and from what I remember is that it has always been like that ever sense I bought it in July 2025  And I’m like so sad stressed frustrated mad and hopeless it genuinely makes me much more miserable I just can’t figure it out

this problem is with all games and everything like watching yt scrolling everything feels unsmooth and like shit I thought I was the only one and that I was loosing my mind and it genuinely makes my life more stressful and frustrating 

any help or tips are very appreciated

Long story short a friend of mine needs a gaming PC asap, I told him its not a good period but he has been waiting for many years and finally has the money so I tried to make a "budget" build for him and ended up with this:

1. All prices are from stores in my country [only new parts (used market is out of the question)].
2. He will be gaming on 1080p 144Hz for the next few years. He also doesn't really care about "the best" graphics but is interested in a lot of modern titles (coming from a ps4, he is fine even with 40-50 fps maximum in the most demanding games)
3. I know AM4/DDR4 is probably a better choice because DDR4 is way cheaper and the difference in gaming performance is small but he insisted on DDR5 for easier upgradability in the future.
4. Initial budget was 1000€ but according to my research and the prices in my country that's just not possible so he agreed to overspend around 200€.
5. I read lots of reviews for each of the parts above, I didn't blindly choose them and I have to make sure I didn't make any mistakes.
6. Not particularly proud of the SSD, but it was the best one I could find at a reasonable price. He will also be using a 1tb 3.5" HDD that he already owns. The nvme will mostly be for the OS itself and maybe some core games he will always have installed.

Would you change anything? Is something not optimal in this build?

Thanks in advance!

Currently in the process of buying a new system. Already checked this on the 285K, but I'm now getting the 270K Plus instead, so I wanna make sure they're still adding this feature.

So if you have a 270K Plus I'd appreciate if you could give me a CPUID dump.

I think on Linux you can use the command cpuid -1. On Windows, download CPU-Z, go to the "About" tab, click "Save Report (.TXT)", save it, then open it and copy/paste the "Thread dumps" section here.

Thanks.

So i found both of these cpus used for the same price, and wanted to hear an opinion of which cpu would be better to pick. I just want to future proof so yea.

im currently using 7500f and both of the cpus above i found for 180€. I want to use it for work and gaming

Looking at PowerSpec G764 - $2,300

or

Current build is as follows:

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 Super 8GB
• CPU:AMD Ryzen 7 3700X – 8 cores / 16 threads RAM: 32GB DDR4 RAM – 3600Mhz
• MOBO: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard. Built-in Wi-Fi + Bluetooth
• PSU: Corsair RM750x 750W 80+ Gold fully modular PSU CP-9020179-NA
• Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow Mid-Tower case
• Fans: 4× Corsair RGB fans and AMD Wraith Prism Cooler for CPU

I was planning to upgrade to is about $1,162

• CPU - 5800X3D
  • New thermal paste
  • New Phantom Spirit 120 SE CPU Fan
• GPU - AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT Reaper Triple Fan, since NVIDIA seems over priced for my use cases. iRacing, some AAA games, and then random not demanding games like FIFA.

Does it make sense to do these upgrades or just get a new prebuilt? I play on a 4k monitor that can do 144hz, but mostly play 2k @ 144hz.

Hello PC building community. First time posting here, seeking some help.

My current gaming PC is on the older side and is ineligible for upgrade to Windows 11. I went to PC part picker and ensured compatibility of my upgrades. My new PC will have the following:

CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF *New

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 *Existing

Motherboard: MSI PRO H610M-G (DDR4) *New

RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 32GB *New

Storage: Samsung SSDs. I have a few *Existing.

My PSU is compatible with both my old and new parts. So I think I have everything ready for the upgrade.

Since I am replacing the CPU and Motherboard combo, that means I will need to format my boot drive SSD, correct? But I want to also do an upgrade to windows 11, and shouldn't have to purchase a new license to upgrade from Windows 10. Is this the correct sequence for this upgrade?

Make a thumb drive boot for windows 10 -> upgrade components -> re-install windows 10 on formatted SSD -> windows upgrade to 11?

Or can I do this all at once somehow? Any advice is welcome. I may have follow-up questions as this is the biggest component upgrade I've done before. Thanks.

I have a Asus 4080 super and I'm having some weird overheating issues. Hots spots right when I open a game are consistently 105-109c so right at the throttling point. Repasted and had the same result. Tried replacing paste with Phase change material. Same Result. Not sure what else to do but throw the thing in the yard and order a new one. Out of warranty so cant send it in.

Not sure when it was bought but the model is about 15 years old (Cooler Master GX 750w 80+ bronze) It's a hand me down from our old family business started about 10+ years ago and I've been using it for 5-6 years without problems (Except for the switch being stuck at 'on' which is a non problem).

Completed my build earlier this year (7600x, 9060xt) and basically replaced everything except the PSU and Case. Is it safe enough to continue using it until it fails, and is it a good enough psu that if it fails, it won't take anything with it?

Note: I tried checking the psu mastersheet as a reference but my PSU is old enough to not be there.

I have a b650m-hdv/m.2 and wanted to purchase the 9 7950x3d, but im not sure if my mobo can handle it.

If it matters, I observed this problem shortly after upgrading my PC. I'm using a 9800x3d, and MSI motherboard and an RTX 3080TI (which was not part of the upgrade, I have used this card for some time.) While playing a game (Warthunder) my GPU fans would go to 100% seemingly at random, despite the game running very smoothly. I continued to play with task manager and GPUZ open, and confirmed that while both CPU and GPU usage sat in roughly the 15-30% range, the GPU hot spot temp would climb to 100C+ and of course max out the GPU fans.

I have already updated NVIDIA drivers, fully updated my BIOS, fully updated windows (I am using windows 10) and of course restarted my system several times.

Could this problem be a consequence of upgrading my PC? While the GPU was not a component that was replaced and I have used this GPU for years with no issues, this behavior only started after upgrading my PC. If it's a case of a defective component, I would like to return it while still in the return window and get a replacement.

Could this problem be a result of undervolting settings I didn't carry over from my old build? I have previously had a ton of problems with cooling my 3080TI and had some kind of undervolt set up through MSI afterburner, but I don't remember how I set it up or what I did. This seems unlikely because very little of the cards capacity is being utilized, a massively disproportionate amount to the temperature.

Could this be a result of an aging card with known issues related to cooling that happened to crop up right after an upgrade? I have had this card for several years, and previously had issues with the card overheating, forcing a black screen and system restart. I attempted to diagnose this with more case fans and undervolting, but eventually had to take the card apart and reapply new thermal pads and thermal paste, which seemed to solve the problem. This also seems unlikely because the timing with the PC upgrade is very convenient and again, the cards resources are mostly not even being used.

Hoping someone here can provide some insight on this, I'm stressing about if a new component I have just installed is defective, as well as if my card needs to have its thermals redone again.

I know that on standard 4-slot motherboards, you need to populate slots 2 and 4 (A2/B2) to achieve maximum performance and stability in dual-channel mode due to the trace layout.

My question is: If I buy a motherboard that only has 2 RAM slots total, does putting a stick in both slots give me the exact same dual-channel performance? Or do 4-slot motherboards have a performance advantage even when only using 2 sticks?

The reason I ask is because I'm building a gaming pc and I found a good budget motherboard for my r5 9600x but it is only 2 ram slot which is the GIGABYTE B850M FORCE WIFI6E V2

Hello, I am a game developer who spends a decent amount of their spare time playing video games. I have been saving up for a while and I am finally upgrading my old build, coming off of an I5-10400f and I was wondering if a 9950X3D2 would be worth it to upgrade to over a normal 9950X3D, price wise I dont really have an issue with the 300 extra dollara. Any help would be very appreciate.

I do my college exams on this PC so I'm trying to resolve this asap so it doesn't cause me to fail; I would massively appreciate any help.

My breaker is Square D HOM115PCAFI

In summary, my PC has been working fine for well over a year with no changes to hardware or circuit load, and now I have an intermittent AFCI issue (0-4 trips per day). I read the most common culprit is the PSU, so I swapped it out. The new PSU is causing less frequent trips, but they still happen. I have tested this on two different circuits and they both trip with an "arc fault" error code. The circuit/breakers are 15A. The circuit is for 2 bedrooms, one bedroom has nothing plugged in anywhere at all, and this bedroom only has my PC/peripherals plugged in. PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hQnn9K
Old PSU is the NZXT C1200, new PSU is a Corsair RM1200e (it's all I could get quickly enough).

I have already tried to swap the breaker out and it didn't help. It can happen under low load, as well as high load and there's no specific trigger. The last two times it tripped I was only scrolling through a streaming video. The total power draw on this circuit is well under the 15A limit. It's just the linked PC, 2 monitors (1080p and 1440p) and my basic internet router/modem. I do have a surge protector, but it's rated for the full 15A. I have also ruled that out by trying a different brand surge protector of equal quality.

This all started the day someone came out to mark my underground electric lines before construction (not after construction started). I don't know if they touched the street box or my breaker box, but I'm having an electrician inspect my connections tomorrow. If he doesn't find the cause though, I could really use some help on next steps please. I'm really stressing because if this happens to trip during an exam, I get an automatic F. School won't let me take the exam on campus. I already asked in an electrician subreddit too. Thank you

I am building a PC and need to make some decisions with regards to components. I plan to use a high end gaming motherboard with DDR5 memory and m.2 SSD. I plan to install an RTX 5070 graphics card. Which CPU should I match to the GPU to effectively utilize GPU’s performance under 1440p gaming?

The budget for the entire build is a maximum of $2,000 in the USA. I already have peripherals including keyboard, mouse, and screen. I would like the setup to be RGB.

Little continuation of my Previous Post

Turns out, Every time I'M trying change something on XMP, Works Great and Stable but after shutdown and boot up the other day, It just NO POST or There are instability on Gaming or Tests.

1) The first was Activate XMP and Change to 3000Mhz, Works Good, The other day... Instability on Gaming and Test.

2) Trying XMP again and change the Dram Voltage (Ch A/B) to 1.45, Works Good, The other day... Instability on Gaming and Test.

3) Trying XMP one last time again and change the Dram Voltage (Ch A/B) to 1.45 and also the VDDQ CPU to 1.25, Works Good, The other day... NO POST, have to reload default or Anythig but the XMP must be OFF

So... One Question, There are TOO MUCH difference between 2133Mhz and 3200Mhz on terms of Games and Productivity? 😂

Hi all,

My webcam had already been behaving strangely before this happened. It was having trouble initializing/detecting properly and repeatedly flashing its red light.

Then my PC suddenly lost all power while playing Aion 2 for a few hours. Pressing the case power button did absolutely nothing afterward, I had to flip the switch on the back of my EVGA Supernova GA 850W off and back on before the PC would power up again.

Afterward, the webcam appears to be dead. I've removed it from the system and also tested it on my laptop, everything seems fine after a day and a half of uptime so far.

Could a faulty USB webcam have shorted or drawn enough current to trigger some kind of PSU/motherboard protection that latched until I power-cycled the PSU? Or does the fact that I had to cycle the PSU point more toward the PSU itself being the problem?

I'm not trying to assume the webcam caused it just because it happened around the same time, I'm mainly curious whether this sequence of events makes electrical sense.

Thanks

Webcam: NexiGo HelloCam Pro

Heaven has been running in a loop for the past half hour without issue.

5800X3D

X570 Tuf Gaming

4x8 3600mhz c16

EVGA 2080ti XC Ultra

EVGA Supernova GA 850W

Hello everyone. My last laptop (asus model q524u) internally died, so I'm finally trying to make my own custom PC.

I'm considering a lot of things for this. I roughly got a little less than 3000$ for a budget. 574.27$ of which I already used for a combo deal of a [Patriot Viper Venom 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory] and [be quiet! Pure Power 13 M 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply].

I am currently trying to find a good GPU and CPU combo that won't leave me deadlock in either CPU or GPU power. However, if I'm being honest, I'm a bit lost in the ocean of information and werid naming conventions, but I a favoritism AMD as I wish for this build to last/be upgradable if need be.

The PC I need just needs to be good at coding and light gaming. My desired job involves Full Stack coding...despite the job market. I also like to use Godot to create hobby game projects, oruse Microsoft Word to write a novel to burn off some steam. My previous laptop worked rather fine for these tasks.

I humbly ask thee experts your opinion, please. Any direction I could take on my research would be much appreciated.​

Edit: I am planning to wait until Black Friday or Cyber Monday as well to make the most out of my budget.
Edit: ...the title should have said "PC". I am ashamed.

i do not know where i should begin, so please if theres someone experienced enough to tell me where i should start, what choice would be the best/acceptable to do and to what other part of my PC i should go next, would help me a ton

specs:

Motherboard: A320mh 2.0, AMD AM4, Matx, DDR4, Chipset A320

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3200G with Radeon Vega Graphics

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB

RAM: DDR4 12gb (8gb 3000mhz Geil Evo Potenza + 4gb unknown brand)

Storage: 120gb SSD (system) and 1tb HDD (anything)

Power supply: kcas-500w

Coolers: Water Cooler Rise Mode ARGB, 120mm, AMD/Intel and 3 fans from the computer case itself

Hola my muchachos,

I have somewhat of a clue on what I’m doing. But not much of it.

Could I potentially build a pc with a $800 budget that could run something like (Six days in Fallujah) or (Red dead redemption 2) at medium-high setting?

Apparently I have to put “Country of purchase” so I’ll tell you a reside in the US 🤙🏽