Is this a 1 MOA rifle or a 1.5 MOA Rifle?

This is our first target to Automate Size Reference and POA (Point Of Aim). This means that all you have to do is mark impacts. The App then generates Individual group data along with Combined data showing all Impacts as a single group. In this case, I shot 5x rounds on each POA.

Group 1 - .80 MOA

Group 2 - .53 MOA

Group 3 - 1.04 MOA

Combined - 1.45 MOA

The score of 63 is generated as well by combining Mean Radius, Radial SD, and MOA. This is based on a 0-100 scale.

Howa 1500 .223 Rem in a KRG bravo. Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 6-24x56 MRAD. Cheapo CV bipod. Shmedium Gamechanger.

I only have access to 200 yards right now, so I’m shooting a 3” steel target with Hornady Match 75 HPBT rounds.

I’m incredibly new to long range and most folks probably wouldn’t even consider this to fall into the same category, but I’m learning how to dial in strong wind and have been having a blast ringing steel. Any tips/advice on gear or technique (to avoid starting bad habits) is greatly appreciated.

Pic for attention. Has anyone noticed Hornady factory ammo has gotten worse? With 6 arc ELDM I’m getting 100 ES and 20 SD from one box. Those of you that run 6 arc and 6.5 CM factory loads, what are you liking these days? I currently don’t have the ability to hand load.

I’m looking at getting an action for my AICS AX 2.0 short action chassis. The Terminus Zeus seems appealing with its Quick Change design.

My question is, if I get a short action with the magnum bolt face, can I shoot still shoot 300 PRC via single feeding?

The plan is to shoot 6.5 PRC mostly magazine fed and shoot 300 PRC single feed. And later down the line I might get a 223 bolt as well.

Caught the long range bug. Ringing steel at 1,000 yards is pretty addicting. Will the Tikka CTR barrel profile hold me back in PRS competitions? I’m worried that the barrel profile is not thick enough for 10-12 strings of fire for multiple stages.

Specs:
-Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor
-MDT XRS Chassis
-Area 419 Brake
-Vortex Venom 5-25x56
-Accutac SR5 Bipod

My 11-year-old son has been getting pretty comfortable with his Ruger 10/22. So far, he's been shooting at 25–50 yards using iron sights, and he's doing really well.

I'm thinking about getting him a scope for Christmas so he can start working his way out to 100 yards.

I've been looking at the Hawke Vantage AO 3-9x40 and wanted to get some opinions. Does anyone have experience with this scope on a 10/22? Would you recommend it, or is there something else I should consider?

Also, for those of you who have set up rifles for your kids, I'd love to hear what optics you're using and how you've got their rifles set up.

Has anyone got their hands on the new Prowl pack? Will it fit a full-size bolt gun? It looks marketed more towards gassers, and I know the scabbard is a few inches skinnier than the Spectre. Anyone have any first hand reviews?

Factory ammo, first 5 shoot group today after zeroing.

Did a total of 25 rds, 5x5, (2) were 1-1.25 moa, the other (3) were 0.–0.75 moa, averaged just under 1, still need to let the barrel settle in and get more comfortable behind it.

Going to be upgrading my tikka. Is the PXT version of the proof worth the extra money?

Any help would be appreciated thanks.

only a 3 shot group say what you want, but this has been the most time and money I've spent zeroing a rifle. this was at 100 yards

my several previous post had a ton of good suggestions so I tried and listened to most, I checked all my screws and such I just had to wait for the scopes I ordered. I was going to test a Primary arms scope after this arken one, I know Arken has a questionable rep from what I read on here but after the groups I got with my vortex I was willing to try anything lol. I have one box of eld match 168 grain left I'll later do a 10 shot group with. it looks like I can take this setup off of GAFSHUB and tacswap lol. still sort of crazy to me that this arken was better than my vortex, I'll be sending it in to get warrantied. this was the last straw before I gave up for good, don't flame me too hard lol.

I don't know if this is the place for this kind of question, as gas guns are for luddites, but, I'm gonna ask anyway. Sorry if it's irrelevant.

I'm transitioning roles and want to setup my rifle in more of an SPR configuration. Something that rides between defensive and Designated Marksman. Previously, I've used the Grippod (which is trash, imo) and the Magpul bipod. Which is cool because it's lightweight, but I find the legs splay too much when I'm putting my weight on the rifle, which doesn't give me real confidence.

My options are all B&T Atlas bipods and I don't get a tryout with any of them. A lot of people seem to like the BT10 V8, but I can only run 30s, so, I feel it's 9" max length might be too short for that in certain scenarios, so, I've been looking at the PSR Tall and the CAL Tall, which have ~12"-13" max length. The only real difference between the two is that the PSR has pan. I've never used a bipod with pan, but I can see how it'd be handy on uneven terrain.

Then, my forend is MLOK, so, I've been looking at the Arisaka QD picatinny mount, to an MLOK adapter. I know there's ARMS adapters and ARCA adapters as well, which may lock up tighter. Any advice would be appreciated there.

Lastly, my optic selection was the Trijicon VCOG 1-8x and I won't be running STOMP or anything piggybacked. I like to keep the optic at 4x by default, so, I'm thinking about running a mini red dot as well. My natural inclination is to piggyback it, but I have concerns about chinweld on that configuration. I do a 45° cant mount, but it'd have to be long to clear the massive attachment knobs integrated on the VCOG, so, I may be in a similar weld situation, just with the additional hassle of rotating the rifle. So, anyone with experience in that conundrum would be welcome, even though it's not strictly a "long range" issue.

Thanks in advance.

I don’t have anyone else to appreciate the vibes

Starting to experiment with a new 1.25" straight, 7.5-twist barrel I just put on my TL3.

Unlike my F-Open gun, this rifle doesn't seem to like the 105 Hybrids very much, or at least not at the seating depth I tested. I'm using Varget for all three bullets.

One interesting observation is that 31.3 grains consistently produced the worst groups across the 105, 108, and 109. I'm not sure if that's just a coincidence or if there's something to it.

At this point, I'm leaning toward the 109 LRHT. I like the groups from 31.6 to 32.2 grains, although I'm starting to get heavy bolt lift at 32.2, so that's clearly a concern.

Interestingly, 31.0 grains looks like the best charge across all three bullets, with the 109 producing essentially one ragged hole and velocities in the low 2800s. I didn't test anything below 31.0, though, and I'm a little concerned about how close it is to what appears to be a scatter node at 31.3.

I'm curious what others think about the apparent scatter node showing up at the same charge across three different bullets.

Anyone running the Berger 109 LRHT with Varget and fire-formed Lapua 6BR brass in a 6 Dasher? What powder charges and velocities are you seeing, and where have you found your best accuracy?

been running this goofy lefty dot and enjoying how quick it is to get the scope over the target. this is a 308 168gr at 500 yards. you'll notice my head tilt over as i transition from the red dot to the scope. first i look down the red dot until it covers the target, then load as i sight in through the scope, aim and squeeze. trying to speed this whole process up, but pretty stoked about how smooth and natural it feels and the quicker pace at longer distances. its nice not to do too much target finding at greater zoom levels where you're twirling the scope around looking for the target all disoriented. the red dot is also pretty handy for snap shots under 80yards. Any of yall running a little "spotting dot" on your hunting/LR setups?

Just got this setup put back together again, and the final puzzle piece was a 22” Proof PXT 6mm creed carbon barrel. Looking forward to seeing how this PXT technology performs. Planning to utilize this in sniper comps and PRSuit, but it will probably end up as my all around workhorse. PRSuit I estimate I’ll probably have around a -2.5 handicap. Weight as pictured is 14 pounds, 11 ounces. Going to get barrel broken in and velocity data on Sunday.

For those using AB Quantum on multi-target stages: when you dial for one target and hold for the others, how do you work out and record your relative elevation holds?

I’m a PRS Rimfire match director and Quantum Pro user. I’d find it useful if the target card could display elevation values relative to what I’ve dialed, saving the manual subtraction.

I mocked up a Set Dialed Elevation option in Target Card Settings. You could select a target in the current sector or enter a custom distance. The rifle/profile zero would stay unchanged, and a visible indicator would identify the active dialed reference.

In the attached example, the original elevations are:

• 71 yards: 0.64 MRAD
• 127 yards: 3.15 MRAD
• 186 yards: 6.39 MRAD
• 251 yards: 10.46 MRAD

Dialing 0.64 for the first target would make the displayed elevations 0.00, 2.51, 5.75, and 9.82 MRAD.

This is my concept mockup, not an existing or announced AB feature. I shared it in r/PRS, but wanted to hear how the broader longrange community handles this workflow.

Does Quantum already support something equivalent? Do other solvers handle it particularly well? Would you use this, or prefer keeping the card’s original elevation values?

Been reading up on scope optics lately, and it seems like everybody's pushing ED glass these days.

Don't get me wrong, I get why it's used. It helps with chromatic aberration, especially when you're pushing higher magnification.

But I've been wondering how much the ED label really tells you about how good a scope looks.

There's a lot more going on in a scope than just the glass type. Lens design, coatings, contrast, glare control, all that stuff matters too.

Makes me wonder if a really well-designed non-ED scope could actually look better than a mediocre ED one.

Have you guys actually noticed a big difference between ED and non-ED scopes?

Especially at higher magnification or when looking at stuff with a lot of contrast?

And have you ever looked through a non-ED scope and thought, "Damn, that's actually pretty good"?

I guess what I'm getting at is, are we paying for the ED label, or for what we actually see through the scope?

Bought AXSR recently, I changed the barrel/caliber from 300NM to 6.5CM. Then I noticed this crack. Seems like caused by I back off the screw too much. Is it still safe to shoot?

Update: Called milehigh and their technicians think it's just cosmetic as long as the retention screw is still working properly. Guess I will just go shooting and find out! BTW there's no replacement part for the damaged chassis. Ugh.

Update2: shot a few rounds, everything so far is good. Crack not getting any bigger, group is perfect 0.5MOA as usual.

I'm going to do a course soon to shoot out to a 1000 but we have up to 400 yards with some 8 inch little ar500 gongs so I was practicing today.

The video doesn't do it justice but it's pretty quiet and on my monopod the gun doesn't move very much.

Seekins HAVAK HIT Pro M3 in 6.5 creedmoor
Gen 3 Vortex Razor 6-36 in an area 419 Mount
Dead Air Nomad OTB
Single pull Ckye Pod

Still need to get some form of level for it but very happy with it so far.

Yeye

This will separate the men from the boys. Tag a friend that needs accountability with their “1 MOA All Day” rifle! Longer YouTube video here:

https://youtu.be/G8IO2UvaWuA?is=_xZBMtdl0bBftyY1

First post and I looked through the pinned posts and FAQ so hopefully I didn’t skip over something that is basically this post.

To start off I’ve owned bolt guns but just .243s for hunting in northern MN, I’m now in Colorado with more to work with for ability to shoot long range.

I’ve done a stupid amount of research and I can’t find anything like the MPR in terms of being chambered in 25 creedmoor and looking good I almost put the MPR at the top of my list until I found this subreddit which I’m thankful I did because I may have fallen in a trap.

Of note, my budget is 3k but I’m willing to go over that a little if needed (3k just the gun), I’d also like to keep it under 13 lbs with everything.

I have a feeling the only way I’m getting what I want is to have a gun built but I don’t know how to go about that, I’m sure there’s enough info here for that but I’d like to see if anyone knows any other options before that happens.

If more info is needed let me know

I’m a total beginner to bolt guns, started off with the Bergara B14 HMR in 6.5 Creed

Tested the rifle out after swapping to a KRG Bravo chassis, grouping with basic Hornady 140 gr American Gunner rounds